Blind tasting of 13 Tempranillo based wines

Our blind wine tasting group met in one of our member`s home to enjoy Tempranillo from Spain along with well selected and prepared Spanish themed appetizers and homemade paella.

Our host provided 2 starter wines, one a tangy, yeasty and honeyed 2013 Muga Cava Conde de Haro Rioja and the other a 2014 CUNE Monopole Classico Blanco Seco Rioja, a spicy, rich and smooth textured wine aged in used Sherry wine barrels with a little Manzanilla Sherry added.

The first flight included 5 wines which we tasted, noted and scored blind before revealing:

2000 BRANDER SANTA YNEZ VALLEY TEMPRANILLO- obviously a ringer from Fred in attendance, this was from 1 of only 2 vintages, the other being 2001, that he made a Tempranillo which was sourced from a local Santa Barbara County vineyard; pleasant enough, it gave wild cherry notes all the way through with a bit of tartness past mid palate; it finished dry which Fred commented later on was due to its very high pH.
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2001 FAUSTINO GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo; as with all in this flight, the color was a dark ruby red; the nose had lots of grapey notes announcing an immense amount of fruit forthcoming on the palate; black cherry was most prevalent here and in the taste which also included accents of leather and tobacco; by mid palate, the fruit had a tart character and at the end, the finish was super dry, but still with loads of fruit.
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2005 AALTO RIBERA del DUERO- 100% Tinta del País or Pinot Fino {as Tempranillo is called in RdD} is sourced from old vines with an average oak ageing of 23 months, 50% new French barrels and 50% 1 or 2 years old French and American barrels; the nose was a bit muted with a touch of talc, but the taste exploded on the palate with generous amounts of chocolate and coffee accented blackberry and cherry notes; it was full bodied, smooth and easy on the palate and long; my #1 in the flight.

Ribera del Duero has aging requirements similar to those in Rioja: “Crianza” wines must age at least two years with 12 months in oak; “Reserva” wines must age at least three years with 12 months in oak; “Gran Reserva” wines must spend five years aging with two in oak.

2004 LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA RESERVA RIOJA- 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo; the aromatics is suggestive of young and highly energetic fruit plus a strong hit of clove; the taste has an unexpected profile that included saline, jujube, red cherry and red raspberry; it had soft, refined tannins which gave rise to a pleasant mouthfeel.
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1994 ALEJANDRO FERNANDEZ TINTO PESQUERA RESERVA ESPECIAL RIBERA del DUERO- not much of a nose, but a lot in the taste including leather, earth, dark fruit and an unmistakable hit of Brett of the 4-ethylphenol type giving horse stable and barnyard notes.

The 2nd blind flight of 4:

2009 ARZUAGA NAVARRO GRAN ARZUAGA RIBERA del DUERO- a blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Albillo and Tinto Fino; the nose was loaded with dark fruit laced with vanilla and oak spice; the taste was very pleasing with spicy red cherry most prominent; it was full bodied, had layers of complexity and held on for a grand finish which had a bit of heat in it. The group and I had it #1 in the flight.

Albillo is a white wine grape variety grown in northwestern Spain, notably in Galicia. It also grows further to the south and inland towards Madrid, and eastwards in Ribera del Duero where it may also be called Pardina. Although it is, at best, only lightly aromatic, Albillo produces wines with tropical notes and a rich mouthfeel.

2010 MARQUES de RISCAL RESERVA RIOJA- 90% Tempranillo with some Mazuelo and Graciano; minerals and chocolate came in first followed by wondrous blackberry fruit with a hit of mint past mid palate; mild oak notes are evidenced throughout and the velvety texture adds to the pleasantness of the experience.

2010 S ARROYO SENORIO de SOTILLO RESERVA RIBERA del DUERO- lots of American oak here with a nose dominated by coconut and the taste profile having an immense amount of pine wood along with fruit forward notes of blueberry, cranberry and black cherry; it finished with some heat; the group liked it, me?, not so much.

2011 SIERRA CANTABRIA UNICA RESERVA RIOJA- 24 months in used French barrels; 98% Tempranillo and 2% Graciano; lots of fruit here with blueberry, cranberry and blackberry most evident; some talc, sandalwood and milk chocolate provided nice accents; it had a good mouthfeel and held on for a satisfying finish.

The 3rd blind flight of 4:

2012 CONDADO de HAZA RIBERA del DUERO- young, dark, vibrant ruby color as with all others in this flight; chocolate blackberry on the nose with black cherry arriving on the palate along with a note of mint; it`s smooth and easy and finished on a high; consensus #1 in the flight, my #2.

It was brought by one who hosts a Wine Spectator Top 100 tasting every year, this was #18 in the WS Top 100 of 2016 as noted on this duplicate bottle he had leftover.

2012 RODA SELA RIOJA- 96%Tempranillo, 3% Graciana, 1% Garnacha; as if in competition with the above wine, this had just a bit more chocolate covered blackberry plus some vanilla, plum and red cherry without the minty note and an even more softer and smoother texture; it was definitely more complex with layered depth and held on for a long, impressive finish; my #1 in the flight.

Bodegas RODA was conceived and initiated in the late 1980’s by the Rollant-Daurella (Ro-Da) family of Barcelona, minutely involved in Spain’s fine wine distribution sector. Their goal was to produce a red wine second to none in the world. Although certainly really good, this is not the best wine I`ve ever had.

2012 ABADIA RETUERTA SARDON del DUERO SELECCION ESPECIAL- another Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2016, this being #12; 75% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah from the 54 separate plots that they have identified in their 180 hectares of vineyards; matured in 60% French and 40% American oak barrels for 14 months; the nose was huge and suggestive of a big, bad dude forthcoming; true to the nose, it was all that and more with generous amounts of licorice and chocolate laced wild blackberry, black cherry and cranberry; it needs some time to simmer down, integrate and balanced out.

2010 GRUPO OLARRA CERRO ANON RESERVA RIOJA- oak dominated this from the nose through the tail with talc and sandalwood first up then loads of leather infused black currant, plum and blackberry coming in; it was pretty wild and wooly and probably good that it was our last wine of the night as it kind of fried my palate and demanded some immediate food intake and a glass of water.

Cheers,
Blake
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Good tasting Blake. For many years, I used to do these every week. Usually Spanish, since that was the business, but frequently other places. No food though - just twelve glasses of wine in front of you. I really miss that. Learned a lot. And you had some old faves.

“The business”? Didn’t know you used to work at a Spanish wine store. No wonder you have such a soft spot for them!

I think it’s difficult to get a handle on the tempranillo grape by comparing versions which have varying amounts of said grape in their blend. I realize many Spanish reds tend to be blends, but you should try for wines that have similar profile of tempranillo dominance or the same mix of grapes in them to see how they are different, otherwise it’s a tough comparison.

I enjoyed the Faustino I 2 years ago.

Very nice tasting. You included a number of my regular purchases.

I had not heard of Roda before a visit to Rioja a couple of years ago. While definitely not the best wines I’ve ever had, everything I tasted there and since have been very good to excellent.

Thanks Greg. I always appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share about Spanish wines.

I agree that it would be a much better comparison to have those wines comprised of most if not all Tempranillo; however, in this case, the group head here is not that sophisticated and for some, I know they had to go out and purchase a bottle for this tasting.

Having said that, there are many different styles and aging differences and it would have to get pretty narrow to condense it down to a fair level of comparison such as having only Crinzas or Reservas or … and from certain vintages.

I’m in another group that does just that and it is much more helpful and informative for making buying and cellaring decisions.

Good to know Jeff as I will be visiting Rioja and other areas soon and will put this on the itinerary. This was my first wine from them.

Definitely recommended. It is literally next door to Vina Tondonia/Lopez de Heredia, which does a really nice tour. An easy walk down the hill brings you to Muga, La Rioja Alta and Cvne. All good places to visit.

Wow! That’s perfect since our #1 connection is with a rep for LdH who has a retail wine business, mostly Spanish, out of Santa Barbara, but lives in Rioja and works in particular with them. She has planned out an itinerary for us over 2 weeks including a stay for a few nights in San Sebastian and a day or 2 in Bilbao including a museum visit. I love Muga, La Rioja Alta and Cvne so we’re in the hood and have more of LdH than any other in the cellar.

Does anyone know if the RODA style has evolved? The wines used be fairly big and extracted compared to the wines I like, and not what I want, but that may have changed as it’s been many years since I tried one.

great tasting and notes, Blake
great advice and timely , Jeff…Wife and I are planning a trip to Spain next year.

I agree that it would be a much better comparison to have those wines comprised of most if not all Tempranillo; however, in this case, the group head here is not that sophisticated and for some, I know they had to go out and purchase a bottle for this tasting.

Having said that, there are many different styles and aging differences and it would have to get pretty narrow to condense it down to a fair level of comparison such as having only Crinzas or Reservas or … and from certain vintages.

I’m in another group that does just that and it is much more helpful and informative for making buying and cellaring decisions.

That’s the way we would do it, but not always. Same vintage to be sure, but the dif between a crianza and reserva isn’t always that apparent - Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera used to tell people just to keep his crianza for a few years and it will become a reserva. For pedagogical purposes, it can be instructive to try Tempranillo vs some other grapes. I often get a smoky, meaty character from the Ribera del Duero for example, so had this brilliant idea of tasting six each from Ribera and from the North Rhone. Same vintage, etc.

Total fail - the differences were apparent even to the rookies.

Because it’s harder to tell them apart when they have some age, the idea was that we go back at least 20 years, when they’ve at least started to pick up mature notes. So OK then, what about Nebbiolo?

Same thing - total fail. Those differences were apparent on the nose before you even tasted anything.

With slightly younger wines, it is a little harder to distinguish “modern” style wines from Napa Cabs, which was odd - I even mistook Silver Oak for a Spanish wine and had to hang my head in shame.

This is just Tempranillo of course - from Rioja, Ribera, Toro, etc. Other grapes are fun too, but not all at once because the idea was to reduce the number of variables.

The most surprising taste comparison to me was the one I thought would be most obvious - Sangiovese vs Tempranillo. Especially Rioja. After 20 years or so, they both take on notes of dry strawberries, tea, and leather and if you leave La Rioja Alta out of the mix because of it’s obvious coconut/dill component, it is surprisingly hard to distinguish unless you’re really familiar with the particular wineries. Who knew? I’ve been dying to do that tasting again a few times but don’t have a table big enough for 144 glasses any more.

As for Roda - years ago they were a little controversial. They have a vineyard next to Tondonia but are a world apart in terms of cellar cleanliness and approach. Tondonia is a well-kept organic vineyard - it’s the cellar that is in its own category. On release, the wines seem very different. But with age, and not five years but a lot longer, the Tempranillo grape comes into its own and they both age beautifully. LdH often seems to have a bit of VA, which marks it out, but both wines become wonderful old Riojas. I don’t know that Roda has changed its approach much, so much as people don’t make such a fuss these days over whether something is “modern” or “traditional”. You can find that out right next door to LdH if you walk over to Muga - their Torre Muga ages into a more classic gran reserva style if you don’t drink it right away.

You guys will have fun visiting. Good luck! [cheers.gif]

As always, I appreciate your informative posts Greg. Id love to do some the tastings you have done and propose in a random blind format. Perhaps I can talk my Rioja contact, Monica Nogues of Think Global Wines, to join for one of these featuring a specific older vintage GRs such as 81 which I have a few of and know she and a few others do as well.