After learning that Jimmy is considering a day trip from Paris, here’s what I emailed him:
Couple of ways to go.
(1) Take an early train out of Gare du Nord to Reims, do a tour and tasting at one of the big houses (the Taittinger tour is excellent, but there are plenty of choices), have a 2 star lunch at Les Crayeres, tour the Cathedral, take the train home. A full (and wonderful) day.
(2) Go to Epernay instead of Reims if you want to make it all about wine. Tour one big house (I suggest Moet, there are numerous choices), one high-quality mid-tier producer (Alfred Gratien would be my top choice), and one grower (I have a good contact at Stephane Coquillette in Chouilly, about 5-10 km outside Epernay). Squeeze in lunch at a bistro, or if you want a bigger production, at the Hotel Royal Champagne.
Just posted on the other thread including Champagne; check there for an alternate ramble with roughly the same content.
The Royal Champagne is good to dine and good to stay at, but it is Relais & Chateaux and you pay for the experience. It is worth it if you are into the experience. We did find some reasonable dining in Epernay, but the hours were farmers’ hours in some places, so you have to plan ahead. Talk with the winery staff when you go taste. They’ll point you in good directions with up-to-date intelligence. There were many good places between the big houses and the train station (go figure).
We stayed a night at The Royal Champagne and then a week with Champagne Tarlant. Micheline was wonderful. I don’t see them listing accommodations anymore, but other growers have rooms. Check Jean Milan out. I recall them being 50 euros a night (this was 2006). Staying at a Champagne house is absolutely the way to go if you want to get to know the people and the region better organically. The accommodations can be rustic, but we found it comfortable enough.
Wife and I visited Champagne for a couple days back in October. We stayed at a lovely B-n-B in Verzy. If you contact Wine Berserker member “Jiles Halling,” he can give you the details, as the B-n-B is owned and run by himself and his wife, Yvonne. My wife and I thought the accomodations were very nice, and quite affordable too!