We’re back from our Croatia trip to Dubrovnik, Hvar, Split, and Rovinj. Incredible trip, loved it. I’ll just fire off random thoughts.
Dubrovnik
unique in the world. Stunningly beautiful
There was only one cruise ship and the place was PACKED. I can’t imagine what it’s like during peak season when there are 4 ships and the temp is 10 degrees warmer. People must be dropping
Game of Thrones stores and tours are everywhere.
food is outstanding and the shear number of restaurants in those tight quarters is to awe
The country of Croatia is basically a large rock with more smaller rocks
the views from the cable car trip to the top are beer worthy
walked the fortress wall early if you don’t want 45 people in every photo
if you’re not staying inside the walls you’re going to climb. It’s almost comical.
good trail / sneakers are critical. Feet take a beating
Hvar
the yachts here are in the class with Monaco
it’s a happened place at night
rent a car and drive around the island
water is crazy clear
take a boat tour of the islands
lots of great restaurants
Split
it’s just okay, not much of a reason to spend time here other than the ferry ended here
Plitvice lakes
WTF!!! At one point I was laughing, how many waterfalls do I have to look at?
This place is world class. Put it on your bucket list.
Rovinj
The warden said “I think we’ll like this place, it has everything”
I LOVE this place, it has EVERYTHING
One of the best towns I’ve every visited
Stayed for 3 nights and the warden was crying as we drove off to Slovenia
Both amazing places. The difference, for me, I could spend a couple days in Dubrovnik where I could spend a couple weeks in Rovinj. (disclaimer: in the shoulder season for both)
The ruins in Split were awesome if ancient Roman ruins is a thing. Also great Burek at St Burek.
As my wife is a huge ruin fan, we will be going back.
Montenegro, Dubrovnik, Split, Plitvice, Rovinj, Venice for four weeks…
Was thinking of an island (Korcula?) but we’ll be 5 days in the water at Kotor Bay , Montenegro, so not sure about it. Any island hotel recommendations and hotel recommendations, especially for Rovinj and an island would be great.
Rovinj has a handful of large high-end hotels like the Grand Park which are world class based on the reviews. They’re slightly on the outskirts of the old town but a 5 minute walk.
There are boutique hotels in town which are very nice too.
I’m flexible on price- there will be some higher end and some more affordable in the mix.
The rates at the Grand for the dates I want are 386 euros for the basic room, not cheap for Croatia but within budget for a more expensive stay… We need a king bed, which is tough in that area, but this place has it. So thanks .
How will you travel between those places? Late mid September should be less crowded so you can enjoy the more busy places better than during peak season.
Regardless, I think an island would be a great idea. Korcula is one of my favorite island. You could spend couple of hours in the town but I would really recommend that you head to Lumbarda quite near by, especially if you plan to swim as well (among few of the sandy beaches in Croatia). A special place, especially for wine lovers where you can see and taste Grk. A couple of great restaurants (not fancy but in terms of quality) around and just a beautiful place.
Across the water from there you also have a terrific view of the most famous Croatian wine appellations - Dingac and Postup on the peninsula Peljesac.
Reason why I asked how you will travel between the places is that if you go by car from/to Dubrovnik then Peljesac is on the way to Korcula. You have terrific oysters, among other… if you make your way to either Korcula or Peljesac then I’m happy to share some suggestion (just DM me).
I’m sure you didn’t regret it! Never heard about that winery but believe I read somewhere that there is something like 30.000 winemakers registered in Croatia (don’t take my word for it though, was some time ago). I don’t know if you got to try Miloš, Kiridzija or Korta Katerina. They have (in that order) for me reached the highest heights with consistency. Some others (I exclude styles I’m not too fond of myself) hit the jackpot every now and then while I’m sure there are plenty of other wineries on the peninsula that I haven’t tried yet.
Don’t get me wrong there’s a lot of mountains but there is quite a bit of flat and rolling hill areas covering a lot of the country as well.
Just my view but I’d say that in Istria the average quality is higher (and in general wineries are probably larger in size), however the peaks are in higher in Dalmatia. But harder to get hold on. Grk grown in Korcula is for example very special (there are other very limited in volume hardly known varieties across Dalmatia that are terrific), and ungrafted. Some producers on Peljesac also work with ungrafted vines like Miloš. I believe a large part of the +100 indigenous varieties originate from Dalmatia.
And I have lately started to really dig Grasevina, underestimating and loads of plonk made but the good stuff is very good and a delight for those who like minerality, acidity and texture in there white wines.
I see, for me then it would depend on where you can/want to start the boat journey, as well as how much time om you plan to spend boating.
If you travel from Split to Dubrovnik first then depending on time available it definitely would make a lot of sense to see quite a few of the islands on the way south Hvar (not necessarily the town even it is a beautiful place), Korcula, Mljet or even Lastovo.
Haven’t done the trip by boat myself but I imagine that Dubrovnik - Kotor could be about long trip (while I’m sure it must be beautiful, it’s more going along the coast which also makes it a bit different).
I have never be to Kotor myself but looks very beautiful, would love to go there. Nonetheless if I was in the area by boat then I would considering if 5 days in one place is optimal versus using a few of those days sailing along the islands moving south from Split. Whatever you choose I don’t have any doubts you’ll have a great time!
Dubrovnik -kotor will be by car (maybe car and driver); it’s 90 minutes. Getting to Dubrovnik is much easier than Tivat (Montenegro) from LAX unless I go on LH or Austrian.
The Hyatt in Kotor Bay is underpriced on points (will go you next March for sure). 5 nights will be great- I’ll get over my jet lag .
And my bad for being unclear, it’s by ferry, not a private boat.
What’s is the nicest island between Dubrovnik and Split with direct ferry service to those cities?
I see… Hang on to the car if you can, you will be able to explore more/better that way. The most time efficient, and I really like the place would be to go to Korcula. It also allows you to see and perhaps enjoy/spend a bit of time on Peljesac (mentioned it in the previous post), and the ferry to Korcula is a very short trip from Orebic (~2 hours from Dubrovnik). https://www.jadrolinija.hr/
Then you could stay at Lumbarda for example. Kurcula town is very nearby, you can do daytrips on the islands, etc.
On the way to Split then you could either take the ferry from Vela Luka, or drive ~2.5hours from Orebic using the new bridge on Peljesac.
When in Split (a day is enough for the city exploring) you could consider driving to Krka, another national park with a waterfall - you can swim here (not allowed in Plitvice). The most beautiful route is to take the boat from Skradin (a good place for a meal, nice food and local specialties), you’ll have very beautiful ride…
I have visited Croatia every year (many years multiple times both privately and for work) for the last 14 years across the country, up and down the coast… Based on my experience I would recommend having a car, assuming you feel comfortable driving (September is less busy as well). It’s probably the easiest ways to really explore and see an island (and the coast) unless you have a boat of course. Or if you like to bike and explore the island but it’s a lot of elevations and you’d be biking on the regular roads, it’s not like Amsterdam where you have bike lanes.
That applies to a place like Hvar as well unless you just want to see the town itself, think it would be a mistake if you are visiting an island that has more to offer, or isn’t very small like some of the island near Zadar.
If you want to visit beaches, some wineries, I guess you want to see a few beaches, nature sights, country side family agriturismos cooking food peka style growing their own veggies and so on then a car is better.
If you don’t plan to, or wish to do exploration outside of a city (i.e. got to Hvar and stay in the city Hvar only) then I wouldn’t bother going to any of the islands. Probably better sticking to the coast as you’re not getting much extra out of visiting the islands but spend time getting there. And the towns are relatively small, you don’t need much more than a couple of hours, if even that… In fact I loved doing that that first trips I took, so definitely nothing wrong with that!
If you are interested in seeing the towns, you might rather use Split as your base (or any of the towns below) and spend half a day / day to to explore Split. Then you can visit beautiful historical towns nearby like Trogir, Sibernik and Primosten. None of them much more than an hour away and very pretty with much to offer - UENESCO sites in most of them or at least next to them. A lot of beautiful beach options (even Murter an island with a small bridge to get there is nearby and a lovely place) if you like that, plenty of restaurants that are quite unique/traditional on the routes which is something else than the busy town restaurants. You can combine most of them with a visit to Krka (perhaps Trogir doesn’t make sense), and also visit a couple of them in a day in slow pace.
Either way - you will get more out of your stay with a car…
but true especially for the now more popular touristic parts.
but there is quite a bit of flat and rolling hill areas covering a lot of the country as well.