Do they improve?
Thanks.
Define “improve”.
If you like what happens to an older sweet wine, then yes. The better ones should age as well as any Sauternes or TBA, and those age wonderfully if you like what happens.
But we really don’t know a lot about the current crop as they’ve really changed since 1990. We know what was done in communist times and pre-communist times and those aged, even though stylistically they were quite different from much of what we find now. The first few years, people were trying new things and they didn’t really have a lot of experience under their belts, so it’s really hard to say how some of the wines from the early 1990s will hold up, although I wouldn’t bet against them. But by 1999, they were in much better shape and the wines should be awesome for years to come. If you can keep d’Yquem for 50 years, you should be able to keep a great Tokaji-aszu for at least as long. I have many from 1999 and 2000 and they’re aging glacially.
I guess by improve I meant, not get worse for 10 years and maybe even get better over 10 or 20.
probably forever.
+1
I had a '93 a few months ago of unknown provenance that was in great shape, but more mature than I expected. To me, it was better than a young example. As mentioned, the '99s (from Royal Tokaji, at least) seem to be coming along very slowly, and I believe those and much of what’s come after them will last a very long time with definite improvement in terms of complexity.
Greg, what are your thoughts on the relative ageability of Szepsy 6 puttonyos compared to some of the higher-extract examples of some of the more traditional producers? Szepsy has always come across as a more delicate, finesse-driven wine to me.
Cheers,
Bill
Perfectly stored versions from good vintages and producers have been known to last for 5+decades, I know of a collector who was drinking pre ww11 vintages of tokaji in the early 2000’s.
Age ability is somewhat a function of the drinker and his palate.
Here’s my Cellar Tracker note on the 93 Oremus 5 put, for what it’s worth.
5/22/2010 rated 90 points: This has aged well. About 10 years ago this had a laser-like acidity that dominated the wine, aside from its sweetness. Now botryitis, caramel, brown sugar, and apricots make their presence known, but still nicely braced by acidity. Very pleasing and a good foil for the Roquefort and Point Reyes blue cheeses served before the dessert course.
Bill - it’s a good question and I don’t think anyone knows. I have a number of his wines, from his first dry ones on which he hand-wrote the labels so I could remember what I had to some of his 6 P aszu wines. His obsession is making sure that the wines are not the same as Sauternes, and I think he’s achieved that - they’re more delicate and light than most Sauternes. How long they’ll last is anyone’s guess. I’m betting on pretty much forever, but who knows? But he’s the lead guy and his wines are wonderful, so I’m taking the bet.
One thing that’s a known problem with a number of the wines from the region is oxidation. It’s been a huge problem with the Kiralyudvar wines, particularly the dry ones but also the sweets. I had a 1999 this past Saturday and it was magnificent, but sometimes they’re really browning. That was an early vintage where Szepsy was still involved, although the oxidation problem wasn’t known at the time. It’s come up later, as the wines aged, and there’s some politics involved so both Szepsy and the winemaker left. Had the same problem with Dereszla, which I think is one of the best buys from the region as a general rule.
Royal Tokaj is intentionally made in a more oxidized style, so one assumes it’s intentional, but that’s more of a hit with British critics than with most Hungarian consumers. That oxidation may hide issues that one might otherwise object to. I just checked a few bottles of Szepsy 1999s and they’re looking pretty good - still crystal clear and light. Another producer in that same vein that you should look at is Alana Tokaj, they’re available in the US and clear, clean, bright, elegant. Also Judit Bott, if you can find them.
I have had many wines that started with high acid and tons of sugar. While occasionally they “dry out” 95% age gracefully. Tokays raisiny quality becomes more complex, the finish longer. The true top of the line (legendary) lasts for… well longer than I will. If you like those flavors, while a great deal heavier, hunt for old Malmsey Madiera and high end Malaga. Occasionally I would find a Italian dessert wine that finished the same. Tokay 6 should last as long as the cork in the bottle.
Last year, I had a bottle of 1973 3 Puttonyos (IIRC - I think it was 3) purchased off of WineBid that was delicious and still going strong.