Just returned from the trip. Beef served at Wanoyado Hotel Iyaonsen was very very good. Loved Takamatsu-Shi and JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu. On the way back, stopped over in Osaka for a couple of nights, Takamura Wine and Coffee was pretty fun place to hangout, they served really good wines by the glass, Mouton Rothschild, Montille Malconsorts, and some old vintage RSV.
Okura
Glad you had fun! Will have to check out Takamura next time I’m in Osaka
Airbnb is flourishing in Japan, and can be a good bit cheaper than regular hotels. They tend to be run quite professionally as well. The last time I was in Kyoto I stayed in one just off Higashioji Dori, blocks away from the Yasaka shrine; it was super convenient and ran me ~$120 per night
Mume. It is the very best for the money but very small and requires almost a year in advance reservations.
We stayed at The Thousand in Kyoto, steps from the main train station, and we liked it a lot.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Want to thank everyone for their suggestions - ended up staying in Kyoto at the Solaria Nishietsu - very nice little hotel in great location by the river. Had two tremendous dinners, omakase at Kappo Sakamoto and tempura at Tenyou. Had not been in Kyoto in over a decade and fell in love all over again. What a wonderful city to wander in.
Probably one of the greatest meals of my life back in Tokyo at Sushi Ryusuke in Ginza. 7 seats, chef Ruyuske is a master.
Thanks again.
Tokyo:
Izakaya Vin (Shibuya) for a casual evening’s meal. Simple; but good enough French dishes with a very wide, interesting array of wine.
For good sushi while shopping in Ginza, I can recommend Tsukiji Suzutomi.
For very good, low-key kaiseki (BYOB friendly), Kien in Asakasa (1* Michelin as of last year).
If you happen to visit the Mt. Fuji environs, don’t miss having a kaiseki dinner at Oshino Yashima (4667 Ochino, Oshiro-mura, Minamitsuru-gun 401-0512, Yamanashi Prefecture). Also very BYOB friendly. When making your reservation, mention to chef-owner, Hiro-san, that I (Noel, from Manila, Philippines) recommended his place to you - aside from being a fine chef, he’s a good friend/fellow who likes wine and is also crazy about single malt whiskies.
Kien is gem, and lunch there is a great value. It is also steps away from an excellent Jura wine bar called Gout de Jaune, and right across the street from the ANA Intercontinental Hotel, where we often stay. It’s not a very top tier hotel, but is quite nice and convenient for many reasons, including the Limousine Bus that goes non-stop between the hotel and both Haneda and Narita.
Yes, the ANA Intercontinental we walk to for whisky & cigars after dinner at Kien. Nice bar. I prefer it to that of the Prince Park Tower.
Agreed - I have spent many (too many?) an enjoyable late night in the whisky bar there. It’s quite special when they have a good piano player playing quietly. The whisky selection is solid, if not exactly inspired.
We recently returned from an 8 day trip to Tokyo/Kyoto, our first to Japan. Stayed at the Cross Hotel in Kyoto and had a great experience. The hotel opened 1-2 years ago in a converted bowling alley and has a terrific staff and location a block from the Pontocho neighborhood. Breakfast array is amazing and has sterling Western and Japanese choices. Wandered around Pontocho and had a very nice dinner at Kyoshikian, pairing the tuna entree with an entry level Hamelin 2014 Chablis which was nonetheless the priciest wine on the list. Chef was so astounded that we took the plunge on the Chablis that he accompanied us to the door in the midst of cooking to say goodbye. Little things like that peppered our trip and I cannot wait to go back.
The star of the show in Japan could be many things but turns out to be the people, with the food a close second.
Cheers,
Doug
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Heading to Tokyo/Kyoto/Osaka in the spring, all the suggestions will be helpful. thanks
The Tokyo natural wine scene is spectacular, if you want to try that:
Ahiru Store
Bricca
Auxs Ami Tokyo
Sansa Beer
La Pioche
Margo
Le Cabaret
Le Verre Vole à Tokyo
Winestand Waltz
Maison Cinquante Cinq
Organ
Gout de Jaune
Winestand Bouteille
Aux Amis des Vins
Enoteca Mille
Bunon
Guerrero
Shonzui
Akaiheya
Shimokita Komorebi
Bar à Vin Parc
True words!
Couple of bolded comments…
It’s hard to believe it’s been 20 years since I’ve been to Tokyo (seems like yesterday), but is there still some good Fusion restaurants? I remember going to an incredible fusion restaurant owned by an American chef in the Champs-Élysées section of Tokyo. He did a hybrid of Japanese, Mexican and Vietnamese. Super creative, for example I had a Japanese Tostado. It blew my mind.
I miss Tokyo and look forward to returning one day.
There are a lot of French restaurants in Japan that use a lot of Asian ingredients - most people would call them French? But could be considered fusion. Narisawa is the golden standard of this.
Wow, I wish I hit you up when I was there in December. Akaiheya for example wouldn’t sell me much because I was a first-timer. They did have a great BTG selection so I still recommend them.
I’m impressed you know Bar a Vin Parc because that one I didn’t read through any guides, someone at maison cinquante cinq told me about it. He actually sold me a bottle of murmures 
.
Do you know why they changed it to Un Jour? Japanese people couldn’t pronounce verre vole? Verre vole is a great name no?
Was at Akaiheya last night and had a fun selection. Do go again if you can, it is so lovely there.