JJ Prum - 2019 range tasting "every year is a new adventure"

Another amazing JJ Prum release tasting, this time the 2019s. A return this year to close to normal and great to have the positive energy in a dining room to match the energy of the wines. Not the complete set of wines this year to try, but still a privilege to go through the ones on offer.

From start to finish, a set of thrilling expressions of site and time - tension, vibrancy and purity in abundance. My favourites were the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett and Auslese but they all had something special to offer in their own right.

As Katharina Prum said over live video during the tasting “every year is a new adventure” - for her and the team at JJ Prum seeing what each unique vintage brings to the character of the wines - but also for us who are lucky to gather and taste them.

Kabinett
Served with kingfish sashimi - lime, coconut & thai basil and a cabbage and sesame salad

  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Ripe nose - kiwi, passionfruit and peach. Approachable and friendly, yellow tinged fruit across the ripe but not overtly sweet profile. Focusses up toward the finish, wrapping up the sweetness nicely with the acid. Not quite the depth of the other two Kabinett, but a delicious start. 90/100
  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Subtle aromatics, showing real delicacy - pear, lemon, vanilla spice and a mineral undertone. Thrilling acidity here, amplifying the pure fruit and bringing superb energy. Irresistibly delicious, with that acid line awakening the palate and delivering a focused, long finish. Really brought out the sweetness of the kingfish sashimi, a perfect match. 94/100
  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Open and lifted aromatics - white florals, red berries, crushed rocks, smoke and passionfruit. Fruit concentration here is excellent, with plenty of acidity lifting it up and stretching the fruit out. Superb control and flow here, this is brilliantly persistent with great texture and presence. 93/100

Spatlese
Served with a selection of dumplings

  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Peach, lime, passionfruit and grapefruit on the nose. There is a noticeable lift in sugar next to the previous flight and it really works with this wine to give it some extra palate presence, while having enough acidity to still bring it through to a nicely lithe finish. 91/100
  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    The aromatic profile here is quite tight - slate, smoky graphite and spice. The palate is in a similar spot, with a strong core of acidity taking the reins right now, though the purity of the fruit does get a chance to shine through the mid palate. As long as you like plenty of acidity, this can be opened now but more time will certainly see it lift a gear. 92/100
  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    The nose is open and shows plenty of smoke, earthy spice, peach, lemon and pears. The palate is delightful, with the interplay of the fruit, acid and sugar hitting the sweet spot. Has a lot going on across its long length, but retains focus and composure throughout. The best of the three Spatlese today, and certainly has the potential to retain that position going forward. 93/100

Auslese
Served with duck pancakes with hoisin and cucumber

  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Floral, plenty of spice, ozone, slate and lime on the nose. Intense flavour permeates throughout, releasing a compelling wave of pure, bright fruit across the palate. Matched by dazzling acidity bringing the wine tension and control, this is out of control good. I was seriously smitten by this glass of wine today. 95/100
  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    This is open and inviting from the first dip into the glass, smoke, lemon, peaches, orange peel and grapefruit. Palate is incredible, this really lifts things up a notch with its intense fruit and acidity that gives the wine incredible verve and persistence. This is on the riper side of things, but there is no doubt it controls the power and finds balance. Excellent. 95/100

Auslese GoldKap
Served with rotisserie pork belly, fennel pickle and pineapple hot sauce

  • 2019 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    This dips more into the orange fruit and vanilla realm, along with the usual slate, lemon and spice. Powerful fruit with the sweetness amped up here, but still showing the acidity to match. The power of this wine was a fine match for the spicy pork belly dish, but unsurprisingly this was the wine that showed the most in need of time to evolve and come out of its shell. Despite that, you can see all the elements that will come together with time and let it hit new heights. 94/100
  • 2014 Joh. Jos. PrĂźm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    A wildcard to have next to the 2019 GH AGK. Starting to show a more golden colour. Woody spice, mandarin, musk and showing the start of a petrol character on both the nose and palate. The palate shows some honeyed sweetness and a nicely delicate mineral profile. Probably got beat up a bit next to the delicious, powerful 2019s. 91/100
8 Likes

Nice notes, thanks.

I tried the one from Costco for 30 bucks. Not going to lie I felt like I was drinking sugar water.

All good, I love the wines but I know that not everyone will. Do you like Kabinett generally and just didn’t like the Prum, or don’t like the style at all?

Thanks for the notes! I’m also a big fan of the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett :slight_smile:

Agree that WS Aus > GH Kab > WS Kab at this stage. Drank about a dozen bottles already!

I have had quite a few 2019 Prum, and so far (missing Kabinetts) I have been delighted by what I have tasted. It is indeed a great vintage. Best to date the Graacher goldkap auslese, which I think with age will be truly special. So far, when I compare side by side, I have preferred the Graacher to the Wehlener, with the exception of the Auslese white kap.

Didn’t like the Prum. Granted that was the first Riesling I tasted.

I had one in the fridge for maybe 5+ days and every time I tasted it the wine got better. Think the younger Prum’s will benefit greatly from lots of air time. I have a couple of older bottles I bought that I will open up in the next month to see how these age.

Terry Thiese had a great piece about how it’s easy with German Riesling to mistake fruit for sweetness. To me, the brilliance of German Riesling is the balance of intense- yes, maybe even sweet - fruit with the acidity.

You should probably look out for “trocken” bottlings of riesling, which are dry.

Glad to read this. I went long on the 19 Graacher

If that was the first Riesling you’ve tasted, I’m guessing the reaction had nothing to do with it being Prum, and everything to do with it being a sweeter Riesling. Do you recall which Prum it was? Most importantly, did it say kabinett or auslese or something on the bottle? That will help you get a sense of what level of sugar is too much for you, at least at this stage. At that price point, I’d guess kabinett is most likely. I don’t go to Costco, so I don’t know what they carry.

Man, I wish my Costco carried any Prum. Best I see is Dr. Loosen Blue Slate.

Thanks Cam for these great notes. They were of great assistance to me yesterday when I was securing my allocation of the 2019s. We are loving the 05s and 09s in our house and expect the 19s to do the same in the coming years. To paraphrase Samuel Johnson ( and Monty Python ) ‘ When a man ( or woman ) is tired of Prum he ( or she ) is tired of life !

1 Like

Thanks for the nice comments all - glad it helped some with buying and anticipation of bottles to be opened in the future. I do think my preference is getting more solidified towards Graacher Himmelreich as a rule when tasted side by side.

Revist in 15+ years.

Which is actually usually a quite good entry riesling.

Even as the wines age? I have found the Himmelreich wines much friendlier early, but Sonnenuhr seems to always win out later on.

Wonder if that will still be true 15-20 years from now. Cream usually rises to the top.