MUSINGS FROM AMSTERDAM UPDATED VERSION WITH A SPRING 2021 UPDATE

Dinner last night at La Rive. Fantastic. As reported above, I opted for the 6 course vegetarian pre fixe menu {100 Euro} and chose to go with 2 half bottles of wine as opposed to their 6 glass pairing {75 Euro}. NV Ruinart BdB and 12` Bertagna les Mursers NSG 1er Cru; both really good with the red Burg outstanding.

The very efficient sommelier not only did the wine service, but most of the serving although 2 other very competent waiters assisted as well. Each course was presented beautifully having its own taste profile, texture and balance. The beautiful ornate dining room was sparsely occupied and the 6 tables along the Amstel River bank side of the room were all taken by parties of 1 to 4 so it was very quiet and peaceful. I had table #5, my fav as its 1 of 2 that has direct river views without an inside pillar/ wall partially blocking it.

I highly recommend this restaurant for any who don’t mind the fare and especially for those who desire to celebrate a special occasion as this is the right place to do that.

Next special outings, Zoldering and Daalder.
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Went to Daalder for another stellar dining experience. They have it locked in with consistently great and creative dishes, skillful preparation and artist presentation. They still do only a 5 or 7 course pre fixe with a vegetarian option as well. Even though each dish is in the small plate/ bite category, it’s enough even with the 5 course option . Many are rich and filling, but not to a fault. Each server is knowledgeable and much of the service duties are shared across the board.
They have a decent wine list, appropriate stemware and wine service.
When going as a single, I sit at the “chefs table” which is really a long L shaped counter with 7-8 of the seats positioned in front of the prep station where a lot of the creative dishes are arranged, from the amuse bouche to the dessert. Should anyone go and choose to sit at the counter, seats 40 and 50 {next to each other} are the best.

Chef Dennis Huwae has opened up a new place October 31 called Edel by Dennis. It’s ala carte only, small bites and numerous choices. The menu is quite impressive and a writeup I read whcih came from a local restaurant critic was very favorable which I would have to imagnie. Here’s a link: https://edelbydennis.nl











Thank you so much for the wonderful read. My wife and I used to go all the time but with kids now it’s been forever…brought me right back. Ty

Are you there now? My wife and I are taking a train from Paris to Amsterdam tomorrow morning. Looking forward to a few days.

I returned to the States last Wednesday. Enjoy

More musings from the fall of 2019

I travel to Amsterdam twice a year for about 3 weeks each visit, one in the spring and one in the fall. The last 2 years the fall trip has started later in October and ended mid November.

This year, the summer season was abnormally hot and set many all time records. As such, fall came late and sporadically. When I arrived the trees were already showing significant color change and when I left, it was mostly finished and the leaves were falling in abundance which added to the beauty of many of the canals now being leaf covered. The temperatures ranged from the mid 60s F to the mid 40s F with a few nights into the 30s F. Rain fell off and on over the 3 weeks with a few significant showers lasting for a few hours. Wind is the most influential factor when it comes to comfort. It it’s windy, the “feels like” temperature is way lower.

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So, this is to say, when traveling to Amsterdam during anytime, take layered clothing options with proper rain gear from head to toe. The locals favor wearing hoodies or rain jackets with hoods as opposed to carrying an umbrella {paraplu}. That way their hands are free to ride a bike {fiets} as an example.

Amsterdam continues to be a very popular tourist destination regardless of the time of year. I’m there in the “off” season and it’s still jammed on the weekends especially. Tourism is ever growing here with more than 4.63 million international visitors annually. This is excluding the 16 million day-trippers visiting the city every year.

BTW, when visiting Amsterdam, the best way to explore the city is to do the touristy thing and take a canal cruise. You’ll see more from the canal than from the streets. I recommend doing both, but for sure, do the canal excursion. Also, it’s a great rainy day thing to do.

Walking down the street in any part of the Centrum, one hears many different languages. I often wonder, how did so many different people create so many different ways to communicate and who could have ever figured out to say it that way?

Within the Netherlands, there are many different dialects and a person in the South of the country often has difficulty understanding one from the North. And in Friesland, 1 of the 12 Provinces, located in the North, it’s really a different language. Some of my Amsterdam friends have trouble understanding a lot of the Frisia and it’s less than 100 miles away.

I fly KLM, the Royal Dutch Airlines, each time I visit. In Business Class, they give you a choice of a selection of Delft Blue miniature houses which are real copies of the gable houses alongside the canals in Amsterdam and other historical towns in Holland. This perk started in 1952 and this year is the 100th anniversary of KLM and Delft house #100 was offered on the flight over. It represents the official residence of the Dutch monarch in Den Haag built in 1645. A complete set is sold for 1,500 Euro. The KLM lounge in Schiphol has 2 walls consisting of all of the houses lined up making for an impressive display. I have a miniature collection now and although each is filled with the famous and only Young Dutch Bols Jenever, distilled by the Bols distilleries, i leave them in tact and have formed a small village with them at home.

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There’s so much to love about the Dutch. They’re very resourceful and enjoy the simple things of life. Many are really just happy to stay put and enjoy life in their homeland or take a train to Belgium {a little less than an hour away} or vacation to other parts of Europe, again, mostly by train. A local Amsterdam friend told me he has never flown and I asked why and his response was “I have a bike”.

Learning Dutch is very difficult as the language is so different from English. It’s made harder since most of the Amsterdamers speak English fluently having learned it since early on in life. Often i receive an answer in English when I pose a question or make a statement in Dutch. One has to be careful when they speak in English because they often use a word that sounds like the intended word, but has a different meaning.

I learn more about the US when I visit there than I do when in the US. They stay tuned to all of the news, fake and otherwise. OTOH, I take a walk daily to explore small pockets of Amsterdam and relate some of the discoveries to my local friends and they reply, I know more about the city than they do. It’s like when someone comes to Santa Barbara, they tell me things about the local scene that I’m not aware of.

On my first visit to Amsterdam, 1996, I had a super strong sense of the feeling of freedom. It’s been with me each and every time since. It was only a few years ago when visiting the Amsterdam Museum that I learned that the city is actually entitled The City of Freedom.

Here I am, a passionate wine geek and when I go to Amsterdam, wine is transmuted into beer for me as I explore the numerous high quality Dutch and Belgium beers available.

OK, enough for now. I shall return.

Proost,
Blake

This update comes from the sunny rooftop of our penthouse in Santa Barbara as my first of 2 3+ weeks stay per year was cancelled/ extended for obvious viral issues.

What`s true is, the city is starving. With such a huge dependency on the tourist trade and even the day trippers from nearby European countries, it’s dead. A friend sent a video of Dam Square which is usually filled with thousands of people and the shot I received included 1 car and not one person.

My stam cafe, neighborhood bar/ restaurant is, like all others, closed and desperate to re-open. All of the employees are pinching coins to make it work. And the worst part, is there is not a clear idea as to when this all will be re-established.

Other local friends have stated they are busting to get out and about and many are doing it at the risk of not being safe. It goes on and on, but as we all know, these times will pass and good times will prevail. Here’s to that being sooner than later.

Proost,
Blake

Here’s the short of the 2021 update:

The Netherlands is a mess right now. The locals are unhappy and becoming impatient with all of the restrictions, curfews, limitations and mandates and some are uprising and revolting. Limiting 2 guests in ones home for Christmas was the last straw. Travel restrictions and testing requirements have been all over the place and unpredictable making travel plans difficult. And all of this comes with a huge majority fully vaxxed thinking they have done their part and then more restrictions are made. This has led to many uprisings and revolts. Worse yet, some of my friends have gotten Covid after the vax and some have had bad reactions to the shots. Frustration is rampant. It’s not good time to even consider visiting the country and the outlook is bleak as some have reported to me.
I look forward to a more positive update, hopefully sooner than later.

Well, it has been 3 1/2 years since my last journey to Amsterdam and now I have a 30 day visit in place starting mid May. Things have changed considerably according to my local friends and I’ve been studying Dutch for the last 16 months; so, it will be interesting to see how and to what extent I can relate in the home language.
Another version of Musings from Amsterdam is forthcoming.
Doei voor nu

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I hope the weather gets a bit more enjoyable by then, very few days have felt like spring so far but on the other hand that never stops Amsterdam from being a lot of fun!

May will probably be a very hectic period for me (kids are off half the time, among other things), but let me know if you’d be interested in meeting up. Sometime second half of your stay would more likely be feasible in that case. If @Tvrtko_C does a delivery for his daughter then we might even get him along as well!

I’m starting my 20th day of the 30 and the weather has been the best I’ve ever experienced over 20+ years of visits. Also, I’ve never been here at this time and I caught a late Spring with everything blooming and filing out.
Thanks to you Mikael, I’m looking forward to my first real wine night Friday with you as some righteously good Belgium beer has been flowing down in its place.
I’ve been doing chronological musings since the first day and will post all with photos once back home after June 16. This might be in the form of a new thread with a link to this and hopefully other past musings.
Het leven is goed en wordt elke dag beter {Life is good and getting better every day}

Although it will be a part of the new musings to be posted in a week or so, I just posted in
Wine Talk a review of a special dinner last night with Mikael.