Great read. Thanks for sharing. Going to Amsterdam for the first time in February. Will report back with my plans once made.
Just found this thread and I love it. Filing the info away for a future trip.
The Netherlands is celebrating the 350th anniversary of Rembrandt`s death this year in Leiden. Here’s a link for more: Where Art Lovers Should Go to Celebrate Rembrandt and the Dutch Golden Age in 2019 - AFAR
I’m back for another visit, now starting the 2nd of 3 weeks. Should I produce some new musings, they will be separately posted under a new thread. Meanwhile, Spring has sprung and the trees are leafing and flowers are everywhere. The locals in the Centrum put out colorful flowers including a wide variety of tulips. The weather has been atypically fantastic, low to mid 70s daily with plenty of sunshine. And I did not bring shorts or short sleeve shirts- never needed them in over 20 years for more than a day or so.
The highlight so far was another visit to Cafe Daalder last night. I once again opted for the 5 course, pre fixe dinner with wine pairings plus champagne. It was done with class and the preparation and presentation was from creative genius.
{For Andrew, should you read this, Im seated at the Chefs table/ bar and the Brothers Hartering were right next to me. They got more personalized service than I did.}
Hi Blake
Utterly brilliant. Fine work and even though I’ve been to Amsterdam on a number of occasions, there is much insight here I’ve not got myself.
One minor challenge - bikes first? I’d say above all else, trams first. They can’t swerve, and do take some stopping (though that then invokes the ‘bigger goes first’ rule you mentioned). I’ve certainly seen plenty of skilled cyclists carrying stuff you think it would not be possible to do on a bike.
For all the tolerance (and many would argue the city and the nation are shining beacons of tolerance), there is also direct speaking in the psyche - none of this English silently muttering under one’s breath!
There are some great Dutch beers, but the culture assimilates so well, that they sensibly have plenty of Belgian beers available.
Regards
Ian
Hey Ian,
Amsterdam is the City of Freedom and that energy is exuded throughout the core of the city {centrum}. The local Dutch are amazing people with keen intellect, sharp and quick wit and lots of heart and soul.
Yes, the beers are really good and tis been my experience the Belgium beers win out over all others.
Proost,
Blake
You lost me at “Belgian beers win out over all others.” 
Don’t get me wrong; I drank gallons of La Chouffee at 1.5E in Paris… but only because their IPAs were crap!
Of course, I’m the guy taking home Cantillon and giving/trading it away, so take it for what it’s worth.
Every time I see this thread pop-up, I miss Amsterdam. Just can’t explain the vibe in the city, relative so many other places in Europe that I’ve visited. Throw in canals on every other street and complete ease of communication (everybody speaks English) and it’s one of my favorite places in the world.
Andrew, my remark was predicated upon a limited, but thorough exposure to about 20-30 beers served up over the years by my stem cafe in Amsterdam. They feature Dutch and Belgium beers on tap as well as in bottles and I`ve tasted through repeatedly to continue to find the one I prefer.
Also, I’ve traveled to Brugge a few times and set out to drink every Belgium beer I could in a 3-5 day period. Yikes! I won’t do that anymore. I succeeded and didn’t feel so good for about a week after the last time.
For 2 decades, it was the Unfiltered Palm, a small production, 30 day aged pale ale by a fabulous brewery, the only family only brewery in Belgium. For me, it was like a good brut champagne. Unfortunately, they finally replaced it and now I’m relegated to drinking a pils, Estaminet, also made by Palm, which is really an easy quaffer and at 5.2 abv, doable to keep up with the locals I drink with who drink the same brew times 10 each night.
https://www.ratebeer.com/beer/estaminet-premium-pils/74743/
Ya, I`ll hold on to my claim. Belgium beers win out, at least outside the US which is when I drink beer other than when in Mexico.
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We love Cafe Daalder, creative yet casual dining at its best!
Tom
Forgot to add some photos. Early signs of Spring captured on the first day in front of the apartment:
Right now CNN is showing Quest’s Amsterdam show. Love him or not, his travel shows have a lot of good stuff.
Blake, thanks for a great read…just got bac from 3 days Amsterdam, post cruise, amazing city. do wish I had seen this earlier, still, didn’t do too badly badly for a couple of “old rookies” Dave
Went to Cafe de Klepel yesterday.
Had a wonderful time there.
They have some hidden gems on the cellar. Like a 79 meursault by Ramonet
Job not there anymore. He openes his own place now. Nick gave me his new place address and highly recommended it so ill try to go there if possible.
The new place is called Zoldering at utrechtse straat.
I appreciate the notice re Jobs new venture, looked it up and see he is partnering with 3 others and have their own website up {in Dutch}. Here is the link which includes some details and address on 141 Utrecthestraat: https://www.zoldering.nl/debuurt Im emailing him now and will check it out when I return in October.
Today i tried a very nice bar a vin, mostly natural wine named GlouGlou. Amazing wine list and prices. Not a place to eat, they have charcuterie, cheeses etc, but not much from the kitchen.
The owner is named Tom and he told me they have another place in the lines of Bar Brutal from Barcelona with some more food. Named Centraal.
I really recommend GlouGlou
You do realize you’re sending Blake into total meltdown mode; he’s likely checking his calendar on the hour to see if it’s October yet.
![[rofl.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/a/a7452fcd8e675af869f8da01174474a545b03944.gif "rofl"){kind=small}
i’m sorry Blake
![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
Hi Andrew, As the ole adage says, “You got that right”.
I spent some time in Amsterdam for work and I really enjoyed Restaurant Marius http://restaurantmarius.nl/ and the adjoining Worst Wijncafe http://deworst.nl/.
Marius’s food is a “Every day a changing 4-course market menu is cooked in the style of a refined French country kitchen. That also means that we work with fresh seasonal vegetables every day and that the fish and meat are all of ‘good’ origin.” Hand written menu, old world wine list, and some really pleasant people. Maybe 10 tables so call ahead. It’s quickish by cab but maybe a 20-30 min walk from Centraal.
Worst Wijncafe is smaller and also intimate. Spent time at the bar which is also right where the chef and one waitstaff hang out. Definitely a smaller plate place where you can chat with the cook or a small group. They only allow half the tables to book up with reservations so it was nice to be able to walk in and eat.
I just returned for another 3+ week stay, October 21-November 13.
Some changes have occurred on the local restaurant scene.
As reported earlier in this thread, Job Seuren, formerly of Cafe de Klepel has joined with 3 other partners and opened Zoldering. I stopped by yesterday to check it out and although he wasn’t there, I got the tour and perused the menu and wine list. It’s very similar to de Klepel in that it is a short menu and quality wine list with decent pricing. I was encouraged to make a reservation as it was said they are booked nightly- TBD. There`s a lot more seating here than de Klepel with 8 bar counter stools and 7 tables for 2-4 downstairs and a larger seating area upstairs. The menu is pretty simple and with a wide spread of options, all at reasonable prices. I’ll add photos of all when I return for dinner.
One of the best restaurants in Amsterdam and one of the best vegetarian pre fixe dinners I’ve ever had was at La Rive located in the InterContinental Hotel AKA Amstel Hotel Amsterdam. I returned to scope it out and after learning they have the same chef and somm I met when last there, I made a reservation to return. The dining room is nicely appointed in a more formal decor, but as with most every place in today’s world, casual dress is encouraged [not true for La Tour d`Argent in Paris]. The fare is a reasonable 100 Euros for a 6 course dinner with a 75 Euro, 6 wine pairing option. I usually have opted for the wine pairing, but am now leaning toward a good bottle of champagne or a red Burg or both to tide me through the evening. This will be my direction when I return to Restaurant Daalder, a must visit every time here.
It’s mid fall time with a few trees dropping leaves and a bit of a color change. The temperature has been a very comfortable mid 60s in the day time. They had an extremely hot summer and then serious rains for the past 3 weeks. The skies seemingly open up when I arrive and my local friends always thank me for bringing the good weather.
Speaking of local friends, I have forged quite a few friendships at my stam cafe [neighborhood bar/resturant], de Engelbewaarder. This includes the owner, all of the staff both behind the bar and in the kitchen and within the customer base. These people are true- blue and so loving and caring and genuinely happy to see me and chat about all things US including Trump and politics, which I avoid BTW. Because they all speak English as their 2nd language learned in childhood, it’s difficult for me to learn Dutch although I make an effort to do so. When I think I have it figured out and approach someone with a statement in Dutch, they answer me in English, a clue I’m not doing so well.
More later as I explore the city.
Proost,
Blake