These conversations always amaze me - but do not surprise me at all. Take any wine or producer or winemaker style, and you are bound to find enthusiastic folks on both sides. Period.
I completely understand where Jim and Marcus are coming from. I think all winemakers prefer to do ‘as little as possible’, but many of us, at the end of the day, do what we need to to produce the best wines we can . . . from our perspective, of course.
I also understand how and why Frank does what he does - and I can respect him for that. But . . . as others have pointed out, it’s challenging for me not to call BS when someone says that there’s no ‘dogma’ and yet certain steps continue to be taken, regardless of the outcome.
I personally cannot knowingly produce a wine that is high in VA - and will work hard NOT to make that happen. Will I de-VA wines as others are doing in record numbers in areas within 100 miles or so of me? No . . . if and when I get to that point, that barrel or wine is destined NOT be released . . .
Look, small winemakers like myself are not trying to produce ‘soulless’ wines that have no personality. To me, it’s quite the opposite. That said, I will not allow bacterial issues to take over a product that I have worked hard to craft - and will add SO2 during the winemaking and elevage process to ensure that brett and VA are kept at bay. Period . . .
VA isn’t a part of fermentation. It’s a byproduct of bacterial activity. And Hochar’s wines, for all his excuses for the flaws, were a hell of a lot more consistent and drinkable than Cornelisson. Like, not even in the same ballpark.
There are parallels though: the charismatic proprietor, the emphasis on narrative as part of the experience of drinking a bottle…
I must admit I’m surprised to read of someone having easily over 200 bottles from a producer and enjoyed every one. No faults, no TCA, no extremes of vintage variation. Even more so when Cornelissen admits to problems in his earlier experiments, now leading to his extreme efforts for cleanliness in the winery.
200+ bottles without a single instance of TCA would be miraculous unless he’s never bottled under cork.
I’ve only had one bottle - a Contadino at a restaurant that does a first-rate job with their wine program. This was a truly amazing bottle, ever changing through the night. Yes, there was definitely some low level wild stuff going on, but as such it contributed to the wine. A few years later, this is still my benchmark for Nerello Mascalese.
It was quite clear that a little warmth in shipping or storage could easily set things off and ruin the wine. It was also clear that you can’t make an amazing wine like this with sulfur. Anyone looking to try a bottle in the U.S. should be super-paranoid and anal about it. The right restaurant, maybe the right wine shop, like if they don’t even have the bottles out on the floor and you can get them home safely.
Didn’t know some of the other wines are higher ABV. That sounds like a bad idea. (Coturri anyone?) That just invites problems.
I’ve had more hits than misses and have really liked the bottles that showed well. That said, between the prices and my relatively high miss rate (about 20% I’d say) I haven’t bought a bottle in years.
While my posts definitely don’t hide my disagreement with Cornilissen’s approach, I believe every winemaker is a work in progress and he seems dedicated to the wines. I can’t help but feel that his pricing seems to be more in line with someone who has gotten the circle down though.
Tim’s comment about yet another article on Cornilissen hits the nail on the head and is a big part of my disgust with these wines. Etna produces some absolutely dynamite wines, but Cornilissen is who keeps getting the press, and in his early years he was less repentant about his lack of care in the cellar.
Over here that translates to new winemakers copying what they read about him, and talking it up as a big deal, then quietly shifting towards more traditional winemaking(not conventional, nor lacking in site specific results) as they realize the cost of dumping wine down the drain.
As much as Corniissen speaks for unique sites, his lack of understanding of the process means hitting every limb of the tree on the way down to experienced winemaker. He openly states that he’s “not very good in the warm vintages”. I respect his honesty but if I am unhappy with my performance in a vintage, I declassify the wines from single vineyard down to the appropriate level. It’s my understanding the less than stellar 17% abv wine he and Asimov tasted was Magma. As a consumer, that’s inappropriate for me to consider supporting when there are so many very good, yet less recognized producers on Etna producing wines I enjoy. It’s unfortunate few of them get the coverage Cornilissen does.
Robert, I appreciate your honesty in your feelings.
I’m not lacking in opinions but I usually try to remember to put IMO in my statements.
That said, I am both a passionate wine consumer and also have dedicated a tremendous amount of my time a most beautiful and challenging craft. When a person chooses winemaking as a vocation without any experience in the craft, I can respect that since it’s not that different from what I have done. When he rejects either apprenticeship, mentorship, or school in his process I think that’s a bit crazy. When he immediately charges prestige pricing for wines, while lacking experience and produces wines he himself acknowledges are less than stellar work that crosses my line for integrity.
I appreciate the link to the podcast, but I am a wine lover not a winemaker story lover. No snark intended in any way, I am just trying to convey that for me the truth and story I seek is in the glass. Not that it isn’t with Cornilissen either, every winemakers true story is in their wines.
I’m glad you were open and honest about your enjoyment of Frank’s wines and shared that you enjoy the personal story as well.
Anyone who reads the thread can hopefully weigh opinions and make their own decisions.
Great quote again. To me every good winemaker must be both a poet and a mechanic. The more you choose to indulge your poetry, the more likely you will need your mechanic skills. In the end good wine is balance, and a complex nature, IMO, is enhanced by the kiss of many things a conventional winemaker would regard as flaws. I don’t think that’s different from many conscientious small producers world wide.
Regardless of whether any of us have actually had a bottle of Cornelissen’s wine that was sound or not, from where I stand, he’s taken far too many liberties along the way with the people who were actually BUYING his wines. Secondly, whatever else might or might not be there, I think his whole narrative is peppered with very specious PR (the lone ranger, the mystic, the brave underdog throwing the poor baby out with the bathwater just so he could reinvent the wheel etc.) and too many other things that just don’t make sense to me. Not surprised Asimov fell for it hook line and sinker, given, among other things, his well-documented weakness for travelling artists (see under “Ray Walker”).
I have only tried one bottle from Cornelissen, a Munjebel 5 purchased in the Etna district in 2010 and drunk within a couple of weeks. It showed cooked fruit, noticeable CO2 and quite a bit of “funk”. Interesting? Possibly. Good? Certainly not to my gusto. A memorable experience? Yes, but not of the kind I’d like to repeat. So in view of the expectations, I never felt the urge to try another.
When he first started to become “known” I bought about 12 bottles between Crush and Garagiste, across all his bottling. I drank 6 or 7, with maybe 2 decent, 2 vile and shrill, and the rest just bizarre and not really appetizing. I was happy to sell the remaining bottles at basically cost. I typically love Italian wines of all sorts and mostly drink with food - but these had little redeeming value especially at the prices
I wish I could get away with so many failures in my job and still have one. I am not buying any more of his wines after my experience. I would be generous to match his “A” for effort with a “D” average for results.
Over several mixed cases across his full lineup I can recall exactly 1 bad bottle of Contadino.
Frank is passionate and definitely proud of his product. To the point that Susucaru is skipping a vintage due to off flavors on the palate and finish. Smelled fresh and great but tasted off, and it was Frank that said this first.
Magma bottlings have been an incredible ride… Each year differs dramatically with forward VA in some and an almost aged burgundian character in others.
cornelissen is a polarizing guy, but I’m strongly in his court.
This is like trying to get people who listen to classical music to digest why a mainstream writer likes Throbbing Gristle or Nurse with Wound. Sonic Youth approached music by tuning their guitars to match their visions for songs rather than use traditional tuning. Is that flawed?
There’s a post above that covers some thoughts on flaws in wine. I listen to classical, old timey, punk rock, electronica, hair metal, modern folk, surf, alternative, and hip hop. Plus, pretty much anything else recommended by another music fan. I drink wine the same way.
Sometimes it’s not that we don’t understand the artist, sometimes they’re just not very good at what they do.
Last, some folks like Sonic Youth and some don’t, but Sonic Youth albums all cost about the same as any other bands. It cost $12.99 to find out which side you were on.
Perhaps my favorite thing about WB is the opportunity to get real opinions on a producer or wine I am looking for. Most critics and media taste huge amounts of extremely diverse wines in 1oz. increments on whirlwind tours where they cram like college kids before retreating to see what they have retained and collate scores/tasting notes.
I dislike that process, but have no better solution except for these boards where I can skip the mass tasting TNs and balla shindigs in favor of everyday enthusiasts opinions.
While we all like positive thoughts, and I still read the upbeat TNs too. After reading through a thread started by a negative OP, I realized it had a lot more posts both negative and positive on the wines than most positive posts do.
The extra information gave me a clearer picture of the wines, and the commentaries, both positive and negative, gave me a better chance to determine whose tastes aligned with mine so I could note other things they have to say.
While the negative commentary here may not be what everyone likes, especially fans of Cornilissen, it challenges people to step in and comment. That creates a clearer picture of what Frank’s wines really are. As a consumer, that’s what I really want. I can try a wine other posters don’t like if I feel like the positives balance that or even outweigh the negative.
From the perspective of a passionate wine enthusiast, Cornalissen’s story is fascinating. Haven’t had that many vintages of Magma but it’s probably the singularly most perplexing wine that has me confused to this day. It doesn’t travel well, that’s for sure. Visting Frank remains on my bucket list.
Very true. There’s nothing so valuable as the informed opinions of enthusiasts who actually buy, cellar and drink the wines. Very few critics actually do that.
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