I suppose if I were prioritizing setting then one of the palace hotels is what I would pick. Le Cinq is a great choice, I haven’t been to Epicure or Ducasse’s Paris location but I imagine either would meet your needs (Ducasse Monaco was one of my favorite lunches ever, London a good notch behind). The setting at Ledoyen is also fantastic.
Interesting that so many people are voting for Arpege. As we see from this topic some people are not crazy about it . It’s kind of an acquired taste and from a basic organoleptic level, most of the other restaurants mentioned are superior.
Passard is one of the most remarkable chefs I ever known. The Andy Goldsworthy of cuisine.
That’s why the world is so great, we all have different tastes and creativities which makes it fresh every moment. I believe David Toutain is now a two star, and deserves every bit of it. I love Passage 53. Guillaume is a fantastic guy. He made sure my son ate every dish of the tasting menu the first time we went, when he was 8, and taught him to enjoy a meal like a true French person. IMHO they are both fantastic places and the only gap is in what they are each trying to achieve.
Oups, 2 stars today (I missed that).
I like the place, great food, affordable great wines (for example, I could drink Clos St-Hune 2003 and Rousseau Clos St-Jacques 2003 for 220 euros each, which is like a bargain in such a place).
Only at David Toutain once but although it started well, it was a spectacular fail, both service an an absolutely inedible main (twigs, I kid you not).
At Passage 53 twice, amazed the first time, felt like they were going through the motions the second, and when asked if there is anything I don’t like, they served it anyway.
Haven’t been to the new Le Cinq, but the old one three times, twice amazing and one a real fail
Passage 53 is now La Table du 53. More casual than the restaurant was, chef is the former Passage 53 sous chef. Restaurant Passage 53 is going to reopen in a new location.
I think Passard/Arpege went through a down period a couple of years ago. For whatever reason, he seems re-energized and has been experimenting more with animal proteins. Our last two dinners there were excellent. I’m looking forward to returning in Sept.
If it’s the visual appearance of this plate,I don’t think French would mind. French will eat an unadorned veal head served on a plate with no problem.
Alan Passard stopped serving meat due to concerns over the bovine variant of Creutzfield Jacob Disease, which was a small epidemic of a lethal disorder going on at that time. I explained to him that the risk was essentially eliminated but as per material in the interview I posted above, he told me he has discovered new realms about himself and cuisine in vegetable cuisine and sees no reason to serve beef.
He has reintroduced non-beef products and is actually a brilliant griller and the finest chicken and lobster I’ve ever had my life was at his restaurant
He has basically created a personal religion out of the concept of farm to table.
Philip,
Agree that Passard is a brilliant roaster. He has served beef again for several years.
I think my post wasn’t clear. While I’m not wild about the plating of the grenoilles, I would eat them in a heartbeat and hope they are on the menu when I’m there in Sept. I shared Passard’s Instagram photo of the grenoilles from yesterday as an example of his renewed experimentation.
Arpege may not be for everyone, but it sure is for me.
My post was in response to M. Fu, not you
Are you sure that picture isn’t a joke? Doesn’t even look like a piece of beef.
The conversation I cited above with Alan Passard took place two years ago but I still didn’t see any beef on the menu two months ago.
Are you sure about this beef thing?
If you PM me I can tell you something that you might find interesting.
Yes, he has returned to non vegetable products but not sure how much beef is going on. I was told the photo of beef above, was from a special dinner.
As I said, Passard is a brilliant griller (rotisseur) . The chicken and lobster were remarkable and accompanied with sauces that did not distract from his kitchen work on these two animal products.
I worked in Maison Troisgros many years ago and helped grill lobster there but it never came out at Passard’s level. No idea how he does it but the days of “tourists” like me spending a few weeks in a great kitchen are over.
Nobody mentioned L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and I can understand why. I was very disappointed in my experience, because I had an epic experience at their London establishment.
As someone who grew up in Europe and spent a lot of time in Paris I don’t like to be pegged as a dumb tourist and certainly don’t appreciate being stuffed into the “American” room - nothing against my countrymen. If you’ve traveled to Europe you know what I’m talking about. Adding insult to the experience L’Atelier thought it would be a good idea to give virtually no training to a waitress that was assigned to our table. She couldn’t answer any questions about the menu, had no clue about wine and was totally incompetent. The food was quite good, but by then I’d been so turned off it overshadowed the Chef’s effort.
Les 110 de Taillevent for lunch was a much better experience. Plus it’s right across from a wine bar!