Drifting a little bit here (sorry to rob your thread, Corey!) but does anyone have a rec on where to go in Burgundy if I were to head there for a couple nights?
My thought is I will land around 9a at CDG and can take the TGV direct from there to somewhere like Dijon, Lyon or Beaune.
Does anyone have a strong feeling on where to visit? I will be alone and without a car. Looking for good food and maybe a few sights to see. Obviously, wine would be a focus.
Thank you!
I’m writing this in the bar at the Lutetia, which has undergone (and almost completed) a 4 year, 250+million euro renovation. It is absolutely beautiful. The hotel is running a reopening promotion, with rooms ‘discounted’ to 700-ish euros/night. Our rental apt is around the corner, so I grab a drink here most afternoons on the way home. We’re happy in our two bedroom duplex apartment; it is our 6th month-long stay in it. If you are interested, let me know and I’ll put you in touch with the leasing agent. It is not inexpensive, but less than the Lutetia charges for a nice room and around the same price as Relais Christine, which I also like. If you look into staying at Relais Christine, ask for a room that isn’t on the street, as the movie theater opposite generates noise late at night when people leave. I am also very fond of Relais Christine’s sister hotel, Le Pavillon de la Reine, on the Place des Voges in the Marais. Also worth noting that Hoxton has recently opened a hotel in the Marais. I suspect that hotel rates are much more favorable in February than October. Uber and Taxify are better than taxis, in my opinion. And, as I’ve noted previously, I prefer buses to the Metro except during rush hour or for very long cross town trips. Central Paris is much smaller than it seems while traveling underground.
PS The Lutetia Signature Negroni (Bombay Gin, mélange de vermouths italiens, Picon, Cynar) is a beauty of a cocktail.
PPS Lime and Bird scooters are here and offer a very fun way to bop around Paris. The right bank of the Seine has miles of path without cars to ride/walk/scooter on. Most highly recommended (but maybe not in February).
Mark,
Ask for the ratios/recipe for the Negroni!!!
YOU NEED A CAR. Rent a car at the train station in either Dijon (or Beaune if you go there). Most of the interesting things winewise are outside the cities.
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You should be headquartered in Beaune for wine. In Beaune, if you want to stay cheaply, there is an Ibis Styles hotel that is right on the ring road that surrounds the city. Basic, but clean and nice and with breakfast included.
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Contact info for producers: https://www.burgundy-report.com/discover-burgundy/19-producer-links/ and Vins de Bourgogne, nés d’une terre viticole d’exception - Vins de Bourgogne? If you are truly carless (a huge mistake), you can go to Bouchard and Drouhin in Beaune (both have costs for tours and tasting).
Restaurants we have enjoyed include Aupres du Clocher in Pommard (need a car to get there) and in Beaune, Ma Cuisine, Relais de Saulx (wonderful small place run by a young couple with the husband (chef) and wife (runs the front of the place)) and Maison du Columbier (wonderful wine bar with really excellent food and a great wine list).
In addition to making any appointments with wine producers, do not ignore the Caveaus in many villages where you can taste (generally for a price) many wines from producers from the village. My favorite is the Caveau de Chassagne Montrachet.
Visit to Burgundy and Champagne - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers
Great time to chat with the winemakers, but the cellars will be very cold.
Are there any different considerations for January? (I will be staying in the 1er, and have my hotels semi-figured out).
The cellars are always cold. The difference I assume would be that in January or February the outside also would be cold (never been in January or February so have only a limited ability to comment.
In January, the cellars almost feel warm compared to outside. You’ll want/need layers. The cold seems more biting in Burgundy in the Winter…apparently 5F+ degrees colder than Paris. Dijon is roughly comparable to the NYC area in January.
RT
It’s more humid in winter in Burgundy, so the cold can get really biting (I once tasted in Burgundy during a February cold snap and you couldn’t taste any fruit, the wines were just way too cold).
We went to Paris/Chamoagne for Valentines Day last year. We had decent weather - cold but clear in Reims, rainy in Paris. For the majority of the trip, I wore a leather coat and that was warm enough.
We rented a car on arrival and drove to Reims. We stayed at a beautiful apartment right around the corner from Reims Cathedral owned by Gen George Patton’s granddaughter. It’s on VRBO and I can send a link if you are interested. Several of the champagne houses were closed for tours at this time - we were celebrating our nephews 21st birthday and ended up at Tattinger and Vranken/Pommery in Reims and then a drive to Franck Bonville in Avize. Vranken for the Art Deco house across the street from Pommery and a short walk to Les Crayeres for lunch. C.Comme in Epernay for lunch and drinks/apps at a wine bar in Reims.
On the return to Paris, we spent an afternoon at Chantilly and then passed central Paris for a weekend alone at the Caudalie spa on the outskirts near Versailles at Les Etang de Corot.
Great for a long weekend.
We went to Paris/Champagne for Valentines Day last year. We had decent weather - cold but clear in Reims, rainy in Paris. For the majority of the trip, I wore a leather coat and that was warm enough.
We rented a car on arrival and drove to Reims. We stayed at a beautiful apartment right around the corner from Reims Cathedral owned by Gen George Patton’s granddaughter. It’s on VRBO and I can send a link if you are interested. Several of the champagne houses were closed for tours at this time - we were celebrating our nephews 21st birthday and ended up at Tattinger and Vranken/Pommery in Reims and then a drive to Franck Bonville in Avize. Vranken for the Art Deco house across the street from Pommery and a short walk to Les Crayeres for lunch. C.Comme in Epernay for lunch and drinks/apps at a wine bar in Reims.
On the return to Paris, we spent an afternoon at Chantilly and then passed on central Paris for a weekend alone at the Caudalie spa on the outskirts near Versailles at Les Etang de Corot.
Great for a long weekend.
The St Paul is a very hospitable hotel with some marveous people that run the place. Well priced and located.
Thank you for the thoughts here. Very helpful, though somewhat not what I was ‘hoping’ to hear.
I am going to be alone for this trip and do not really want to rent a car. Might look into it, but it’s sounding like sticking to Paris and maybe a night or two in Reims/Epernay makes most sense.
If you are going to be carless, Beaune is a much more enjoyable place to walk around than is Reims.
He should be careless, he’s on vacation! Go crazy, have fun! But yeah, Beaune is better for wine-related shenanigans than Reims, though the cathedral in Reims is a sight to behold.
I meant carless. Will correct.
both careless and carless 
Well you can be careless if you’re carless, but not the other way around, for sure. ![[snort.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/b/bdc3944606213c4dca6c1169cf0a166c8bc4f8c9.gif "snort.gif"){kind=small}
This is actually encouraging. Probably since I was in Reims once, but I have a level of familiarity where I’m not worried about being ‘bored’ there for a night or two. If Beaunne is ‘more enjoyable to walk’ then I am encouraged!
Like I said, on a sabbatical of sorts, so I’m really looking to keep things relaxed. In Reims, I know a couple wine bars I loved (Le Wine Bar, Aux 3 P’tits Bouchons) and remember how close the train station was to town (literally about 500 meters). A couple decent spots to dinner, a visit to krug (very excited for this!) and maybe another champagne house, and a champagne bar to wind things down? Works for me.
Frankly, this menu is worth the journey alone!
http://www.winebar-reims.com/carte/carte.pdf
Any similar recommendations in Beaune…I’ll take em!
If you want wine bars in Beaune, try Maison Colombier and la Dilitante. For wineries, go to Drouhin and Bouchard (need appointments).