I’m not a big fan of steak tartare, have it once every year or two in France, usually Paris with friends who love the stuff.
I’m in for a relatively light bodied, young, tannic, high-acid red wine. Sorry, the match of raw beef with white wine doesn’t work for me (ymmv). I love rose immoderately, and not just because it provides a lot of my livelihood, but I also don’t want cool or cold wine with my tartare.
As I’m not a Beaujolais fan, my go-to would be a Bourgogne Rouge, light and tart enough to cut through the heft. I don’t think I’ve ever ordered it in a place where Mondeuse from Savoie or Refosco from Northern Italy were available, but that would be my first choice. In a pinch, I could go with a Bordeaux Rouge (again, as with my choice of Bourgogne, nothing higher on the Appellation totem pole). From California, if you can find a cheap 13% Zinfandel, that could work.
Dan Kravitz