Talk to me about white Rioja

WINE TALK
1

I’ve been meaning to post this for a while, bit it got away from me…

I was having dinner a month or so ago at Grammercy Tavern, and ordered a white Rioja out of sheer curiosity and it blew me away. The bottle in question was a '89 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia. It had the golden color of a sweet wine, and the nose had a bit of caramel and just a trace of funk (to me anyway). There was a lot happening on the palate, and I’m not sure I can describe half of it accurately. A little nuttiness, slight caramel and maybe some pear with a huge finish.

I’d love to explore this a bit more, but really know nothing about the producers, vintages, etc. Would it be safe to begin with the producers of Rioja that I’m already familiar with and go from there?

2

Very possibly my favorite white wine.

There are quite a few other very nice ones as well. Look for that golden color an the current release being older than you would expect…

PS: I have a centennial wine list from Antoines in NOLA from 1940 with wines selected and written up by Frank Schoonmaker. The most expensive dry wine on the list is a decades old Marquis de Murietta Rioja Blanco Reserva Ygay and he calles it “the Corton Charlemagne of Iberia”!!!

3

First time I had that exact wine (different vintage), my view of white wine changed forever. I’m with Bob: If I had to choose one white wine to drink for the rest of my life, this might be the one. It’s one of those rare wines in which the list of descriptors is appropriately about a dozen deep. Roasted hazelnut? Check. Caramel? Pear? Macadamia nuts? The list goes on. It’s pretty absurd.

If there is better value in white Rioja, well, I haven’t found it, but there are other beauties.

4

Haven’t tasted widely, but to date I haven’t had any white Riojas to rival Tondonia. Older vintages can also be magnificent.

5

Tondonia is on its own. I’ve had some fun with old Murrietas. Muga is quite nice. There’s a new high-end white rioja released by cosme palacio that is wonderful, in a style reminiscent of the best white bordeaux

most are horrible though: just a massive blast of oak

6

A departure from typical white Rioja, La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco is a blend of six to eight varietals and is a stunning wine. I’ve only had the 2006 on two different occasions now - it can probably age well, but not meant to be aged like the Lopez de Heredia if you ask me. It includes Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, and is similar to a good Rhone blend.

From the winery:

This wine is the result of the extreme weather conditions seen in 2006, with a very cold, dry winter and a dry, hot summer.

As a consequence of these weather conditions and the high day and night-time temperatures during the ripening period, a rapid accumulation of sugar meant that the general harvest was significantly brought forward.

The ripening conditions of the different varieties at high altitude (800 m) enable a good balance between acidity and alcohol content to be achieved, helping to contribute to the complexity of this wine.

The aromas of each of the different varieties have been blended with the help of fine French oak wood during fermentation and the subsequent ageing on lees.

The different wines were aged separately for 16 months and, following a two month settling period and the blending of all the wines, the bottling process took place in March 2008.


TASTING NOTES

Golden straw colour with a greenish iridescence. Clean and bright.

In the glass, it has impressive intensity and aromatic power, with initial savoury aromas of pickles, asparagus and artichokes accompanied by a toasty bottom note and lightly smoked notes. This followed by aromas of aromatic herbs and white flowers, acacia, lemon verbena and honeysuckle.
After a while in the glass aromas of white flowers, lychees and pear emerge, accompanied by anisette notes.

When swirled in the glass, mineral and scrubland aromas emerge and hints of wild white flowers again come to the fore.

In short, it has a very complex, harmonious nose, with a wealth of aromas in which mineral, sweet and savoury notes are combined to make the wine even more original.

The palate shows power and structure, with an intensity and persistence which will not fail to impress, whilst the acidity harmonises and improves the mid-palate, also affording it length and continuity.

The finish again evokes the pickles and minerals, with a floral aftertaste.

The entry promises greater breadth and viscosity after further ageing in the bottle.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Alcohol content: 14,5 %
Total Acidity: 6,5 g/l
Volatile Acidityl: 0,65 g/l
PH: 3,15
Malic acid: 2,1 g/l

7

Kent - the key to that wine is its age. Of course, it started out pretty good too. But IF you can find others of similar vintage or with some age, you might be surprised. For ex, a few weeks ago a friend was gracious enough to share a 1970 Ygay. Shockingly good. But good luck finding any.

8

Maybe five to ten years ago, Jamie, when the barrel fermentation craze was in its clumsy early period. Quite a few good white Riojas these days - and, remember, some of them have never seen the inside of an oak barrel! A sample list below.

Re white Tondonia: To me, the whites are López de Heredia’s best wines (Viña Gravonia, for some reason, seems to be little-known in the US). But in Spain they have strong competition in that style - it’s called fino and manzanilla sherry…

Some good white Riojas (in addition to Remelluri and Cosme Palacio, already mentioned):

Plácet, Palacios Remondo
Allende Blanco, Finca Allende
Capellanía, Marqués de Murrieta
Erre Punto, Fernando Remírez de Ganuza
Predicador, Gallocanta and Qué Bonito Cacareaba, Benjamín Romeo
Malvasía Fermentado en Barrica, Abel Mendoza
Elle, Landaluce
Viura, Beronia
Blanco, Tobía
Viña Albina FB, Bodegas Riojanas

9

Victor,

May I add CVNE’s Monopole to that list? At roughly $14-$15/bottle it is a fantastic deal.

10

But in Spain they have strong competition in that style - it’s called fino and manzanilla sherry…

[winner.gif]

11

Hi Kent,

You certainly picked a tremendous wine to start your exploration of of white Rioja, as the '89 Tondonia Reserva is a beautiful and still surprisingly young wine. I had the pleasure to write an article on the bodega about this time last year and studiously worked through a fine lineup of Tondonia whites over the course of the holiday and first month of the new year, with wines ranging all the way back the the 1957 Gran Reserva. What is really impressive as how well these wines age, as time barely touches them once they are released, and there are plenty of elements in the '57 or the '64 Tondonia Blancos that you would instantly recognize from your 1989. In fact, the 1964 Tondonia Gran Reserva (which I had the good fortune to taste three times last year) may well have been the single finest white wine I had the entire year. I have to second Victor’s recommendation for the Vina Gravonia from Lopez as well- it too is a really lovely bottle of white Rioja and at a price point below the Tondonia white.

All the Best,

John

12

I just noticed the '90 Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ (it doesn’t mention anything about “reserva” though) on a wine list of a restaurant I am planning on making a reservation at over the holiday. I think the price is $85. This thread got me very interested in trying one. Anyone have thoughts on the '90? And if so, what type of food would be best suited to it?

Thank you.

13

Steve -

I assume, at that price, it’s the Reserva. If it is, it’s one of the most gorgeous and unique white wines I’ve ever had. Utterly thought-provoking and long. Rich and nutty without being buttery.

Strangely, I don’t think of this as a food wine. I think of this as a contemplative stand-alone. But I’m sure there are myriad foods that would pair nicely.

14

Grilled fresh Sardines drizzled with a little olive oil and lemon. To DIE for!

15

Evan,

Thanks so much for your thoughts. Sounds terrific, and I totally can understand what you mean by a “stand-alone” wine. So you don’t think it would be a wine that would interfere with a dinner? There is no menu, just a multiple course meal of the chefs choices. Would you consider another white wine before it, or a Red wine afterwards? Or say, Champagne first, then the Heredia? Just trying to figure out a little “plan”.

16

Sounds like a wine that would stand up to strong flavors. Would it kill delicate flavors Roberto, in your opinion?

17

Steve:

The wines from López de Heredia, reds and whites, are very food friendly. I do not think they will “kill” delicate flavors.

Enjoy,
José

18

Oh, no doubt it’s going to be a nice compliment to a variety of dishes. I like the idea of working it in after a Champagne, and the only rule I’d have would be obvious: Don’t precede it with a huge Chardonnay and clearly keep reds, big reds especially, behind it on the list. Other than that, it’s a green light wine that’s going to spark conversation.

Of course, by speaking in such hyperbolic terms, I fear I’ve set you up for disappointment… [oops.gif]

19

Jose,

Thanks for the additional insight and in adding to what looks like an easy decision for me. I am now thinking I better call the restaurant and make sure they actually have it in stock, as this was on their website list.

20

Evan,

I completely understand the concern about setting up for a disappointment. At this price point, I can’t see that happening. I like trying different, interesting wines, and this profile intrigues me. It almost sounds a little like a a Baumard Savenierre, which I would describe as minerally, earthy and “waxy”, with a bit of weight to it. Haven’t had one in a while though…too long actually.

I am just SO past butter chards…probably 7-8 yrs now, and those aussie shiraz…about 3-4 yrs now. And white wines that are interesting or different, interest me. Now, one that is 20 yrs old, and this highly recommended by a number of people, is something I hope to try. Thank you again for taking the time to offer your thoughts.