I remember tasting at Ridge several (many?) years ago. I asked about screw caps. They said that they continue to test them and do side by side comparisons. They preferred cork. Would be interesting to follow up with someone at Ridge again.
After thinking more about the 1940’s screw caps, I wonder about their composition and the safety of drinking the wine they contained:aluminum, tin or lead, oh my!
He’s got it backwards - the market will accept them the moment the top notch producers start using them. And even without that, many of us are already there.
One data point - did a blind side by side tasting of the 97 Plumpjack cab under cork and screw cap about 4-5 years ago. Pretty unanimous that the screw cap wine tasted younger and less developed, but was progressing and maturing. Might be that aging curves would change under screw cap, but well worth recalibrating if we could avoid corked bottles. I can’t think of another luxury product that has as high a failure rate as fine wine under cork.
Jeremy you are spot on with this comment. I’ve never had a spoiled or unevolved ( in the correct way ) white wine under Stelvin or more recently Diam. My experience with Stelvin covers almost 40 years and at least 1000 bottles starting with a museum Pewsey Vale Riesling tasting in 1982. My experience with White Burgundy is pretty deep and I would estimate 15-20% bad bottles with either premox, excessive reduction (under cork) or cork taint.
If Chanel#5 or equivalent scents had a similar failure rate the well-off women of the world would have organised a consumer movement to sort that luxury item out. In another universe the defence of ‘natural’ cork continues. I’m well and truly over the ‘magic moment of withdrawing the cork’ !
Screw caps have gotten quite a bit more sophisticated since the 90s. There are now several options for variable permeability in caps that allows a producer to select their desired oxygen exchange rate and effectively select the ageing profile that best fits a particular wine.
On balance there has been limited long term data points regarding the ageing under screw caps with varying oxygen exchange rates. Would be interesting to see results on how the same wine develops over time under caps with different oxygen exchange rates.