Most recent bottle of 2010 Croix-Boissée.
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (2/8/2019)
WOW! What a sculpted, intense, perfectly crystalline nose. The purity of fruit and minerals is staggering. Not really anywhere near ready or open. The palate is quite firm and strict though it opens somewhat on day 2. The fruit is so deep and intense, but is that an illusion of the structure which drives and carries it? It’s hard to know what the future holds, but my guess is that this will be thrilling when it comes out of its shell. This seems like Phase III of this wine. There was Phase I which lasted through 2002 showing the potential. Then there was Phase II starting in 2003 when the shift in climate had a dramatic effect on the Loire and Matthieu was taking over. I think that Phase III started in the late 2000s when they started to come to grips with the new climate reality and gained in confidence. I’ve been saying this for more than a decade, but it bears repeating, this is the cheapest “great wine” in the world. It really is challenging Rougeard (although they are different stylistically), and I don’t think that is hyperbole. Considering you can get a case for the cost of a bottle of Bourg, well, figure it out. (92 pts.)
Most recent bottles of 2005 Croix-Boissée. Handling the vintage better than Grézeaux, IMO.
2005 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (11/23/2019)
Not as explosive as the last bottle, but really intense depth and lift. You really get the sense of the site, the wine reeks of limestone. (93 pts.)
2005 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (8/9/2019)
Thank you, Jesus! This wine is finally getting there. While the Grézeaux can seem a little overwhelmed by the vintage, the Croix Boissée is not. Everything you want in a Croix Boissée, great fruit, mineral tension, complexity and the tannins are finally starting to calm down. (94 pts.)
And here are some 2008 notes that show that producer and site are more important than vintage reputation.
2008 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/20/2019)
This magnum was a wedding gift from Matthieu. I’ve never seen a magnum of Croix Boissée before (and I’ve tried to talk him into bottling some) so it was a great pleasure to share with my out-of-town guests. I don’t think that 2008 was a particularly advantageous vintage in the central Loire but this is certainly an excellent wine, as Matthieu seems to be able to do no matter the year. What jumps out is that classic red fruit on limestone nose that is so classic to Croix Boissée in the same way that the dark earth note is to Grézeaux. Not fully resolved, but resolved enough that the tannin support the wine rather than control it. Fantastic with the duck where the protein and fat are enough to melt the structure and I just taste the dish and the fruit of the wine. Of course there are the purple flowers and some herbal notes but it is mostly the crunchy red fruit and limestone. Bravo and thank you, Matthieu. (93 pts.)
2008 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/1/2018)
Beautiful ruby color with no bricking. Ripe cherries on the nose peak through a bed of leafy earth while underneath it all is a strong line of chalk that is the signature of this site for me. Really cool, linear flavors. Tannin is mostly resolved with just enough of a structural frame to hang the fruit. Sharp acidity that lifts the fruit which comes out more with air. After about an hour, it is all bright cherry and minerals with a touch of herbs and flowers. Really excellent and in a great spot right now. This is not considered a good vintage in Chinon, but goes to show what a great site and vigneron mean to a wine. (93 pts.)
I don’t have a recent note on 2010 Guillot, but here’s the 2009:
2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (9/23/2019)
Still a deep, dark wine. Notes of dark earth and graphite surround the dark cherry and plum notes with maybe even a bit of black currant. This isn’t to say that this is a fruity wine, but it is well fruited enough to support all of the other herb and soil tones. The fine tannins are persistent and have a calcaire quality to them. I’ve said this before, I am really seeing the Baudry’s vision for this site and why Matthieu was so excited about it back in the early 2000s. Really coming into its own and a worthy companion, though different, to the Coix-Boissée. (93 pts.)