After opening my first ever premoxed Dubreuil-Fontaine I just decided to go for whatever white Burgundy I can find in my wine fridge next. I had been in no hurry to pop this one but then the early reputation of the 2018 Chablis is such that there really was no reason to wait either. I was already a fairly big fan of de Moor but very likely this is the best one so far. A cool style of Chardonnay: ripe and fruity yet not tropical and most importantly not one bit oaky. Would I nail this blind? Hell no. Would I rebuy? Without hesitation.
2018 Alice et Olivier De Moor Chablis Bel Air et Clardy- France, Burgundy, Chablis (5.1.2021)
Right off the bat you get the non standard Chablis experience: peachy fruit is most up front while behind there are chalky and citrusy notes. It smells bright and pure, just not what the textbook defition would tell you. On the palate there is good richness and the fruit is a bit on the ripe side but at the same the wine has good definition, tension and poise. Very chalky indeed with some saltiness, getting wonderfully tangy and citrusy towards the finish. Really generous and long with no oak to be found, this is pretty damn delicious yet still has that lip-smacking quality. Early on seemed to be almost too open and loose, by now has tightened up considerably. Just a wonderful bottle of Chardonnay and well worth the price tag.
Organic and very popular in the natural wine circles, but then there is nothing obviously natty about the wines. Very well made and quite different from the region’s more representative products. I paid 35€ for this which is roughly what most producers’ premier crus cost nowadays. At that price I think it is a solid buy but if you are expecting a textbook Chablis then you might be disappointed.
I’ve tried the 2018 Aligote and Bourgogne Chitry and enjoyed them both very much. I have one bottle of the Bel Air, and it was $60 here, purchased from a place that specializes in natural wines (and they do a great job). Thank you for the note.
Have you (or others here) tried either Coteau de Rosette or Vau de Vey?