Again a tasting report from one of these older Bordeaux tastings I’ve attended.
When wines are this old, you’re bound to see both some bottles that should’ve been drunk years earlier and also some bottle variation - some bottles just don’t seem to keep as well as others.
Although we had our fair share of bottles past their peaks, we also had some really fantastic clarets as well. I’ve never been a big fan of St. Émilion - I’m more of a left bank guy, and if I have to go to the right bank, I’d rather go to Pomerol (or to the often very reasonably priced St. Ém satellites) instead - which is why I was a little surprised when a 1990 St. Émilion turned out to be my WotN.
This time there wasn’t any big consensus on which wine was the best - we only agreed that the wines that were over the hill were truly over the hill - but for me, that 1990 Grand Mayne was truly a fantastic wine. I wish all the Merlot-heavy wines that see a lot of new oak would turn this beautiful with enough age!
We also had a blind ringer in the lineup. I suppose you can guess which bottle it was from the photo alone?
-
2003 La Dame de Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (13.2.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3) and Merlot (1/3). 13% alcohol.
Luminous, moderately translucent and still relatively youthful dark cherry-red color. The nose feels surprisingly youthful with intense aromas of juicy blackcurrants and crème de cassis, some leathery notes, a little bit of wizened cherry, light autumnal leafy tones, a hint of dried red plum and a touch of cigar box. The wine feels quite ripe, rather dense and relatively youthful on the palate with dry flavors of juicy blackcurrants and ripe dark plums, some tobacco, light toasty notes of oak along with woody nuances of savory oak spice, a little bit of leather, a hint of extracted bitterness and a touch of exotic spices. The wine comes across as pretty balanced with its moderately high acidity and somewhat modest but also a bit rough and rustic tannins. The finish is juicy, dry and somewhat gritty with a long aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants, some sweeter plummy tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of game and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
I wasn't expecting much from a 2003 Bordeaux - mainly modest acidity and pruney fruit flavors - but this turned out to be a surprisingly balanced and harmonious effort, not showing the negative qualities associated with this hot vintage. The fruit felt definitely ripe, but not cooked or overripe in any way, and the acidity seemed to be surprisingly high for the vintage as well. What's most remarkable, though, was how youthful the wine seemed! The fruit department seemed still very vibrant, showing quite little evolution and the flavors didn't exhibit much tertiary character. Although not an extraordinary wine by any means, this was much better than I anticipated. Nice, balanced stuff; priced according to its quality at approx. 50€.
(91 points) -
1998 Château Monbousquet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (13.2.2023)
A blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Aged for 18 months in new oak barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, dark and slightly evolved blackish-red color with a faint brick-red hue. The brooding nose feels a bit evolved with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of ripe black cherries and pipe tobacco, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of blackcurrant liqueur, light fragrant nuances of dried flowers, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of cigar wrapper. The wine feels evolved, gentle and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and complex, mature flavors of wizened dark fruits, some toasty notes of mocha and cigar, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light fragrant nuances of exotic spices and dried flowers, a hint of ripe blackcurrant and a touch of dried fig. Despite its velvety texture and somewhat soft body, the wine doesn't come across as fat or blowzy in any way, thanks to its rather high acidity and ample yet very ripe and resolved tannins that mainly contribute to the rich texture of the wine rather than making it tough or grippy. The developed finish is juicy, silky and harmonious with a complex, persistent aftertaste of ripe red plums, some dried figs and wizened blackcurrants, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of woody spice and a developed, savory touch of meaty umami. The tannins lend a little bit of grippy firmness to the finish.
A slightly polished but also enjoyably developed, harmonious and attractive St. Émilion that is starting to show its age, but not too much. Although the oak impact still shows some, it doesn't stick out badly but instead melds with the fruit flavors quite nicely. I think I might prefer the wine with even less oak aromatics, but at least the are not that overt that they'd bother me. All in all, this is a pretty nice Right Banker in a great spot. It might be at its plateau of maturity or approaching it, but it doesn't feel like it is going to get over the hill anytime soon. Drink or keep. As for the value, well, this is a nice wine and all, but maybe not that nice I'd be willing to pay 75€ for it myself.
(92 points) -
1998 Castello di Buttrio Friuli Colli Orientali Merlot Marburg - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali (13.2.2023)
100% Merlot. Macerated for 2-3 weeks with the skins, aged for 10-12 months in stainless steel tanks and oak barriques. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent and relatively youthful dark cherry-red color. The nose feels moderately evolved and subtly volatile with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some cooked bell pepper tones, a little bit of oxidative meaty beef jerky notes, light strawberry nuances and a hint of balsamico. The wine feels juicy, silky and ripe with a medium body and somewhat sweetly-fruited flavors of raisins, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of evolved leathery tones, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of balsamico. The overall feel is a bit on the soft side with the medium-to-moderately high acidity and gentle, mellow tannins. The finish is rich, silky and quite umami-driven with ripe, evolved flavors of wizened dark plums, some raisiny notes, a little bit of meat stew, light cooked bell pepper nuances, a hint of tobacco and a sweet-toned touch of balsamic VA.
A tasty and harmonious but also a bit soft Merlot. The wine does have an evolved Bordeaux feel to it, but lacking the depth, structure and complexity of the good examples. But then again, at just 12€, this wine certainly delivers value for the money. Good stuff, although nothing that would blow your socks off.
(89 points) -
1995 Château Certan de May - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (13.2.2023)
Typically a blend of Merlot (2/3), Cabernet Franc (1/4) and a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in predominantly new barriques. 13% alcohol.
Evolved, translucent maroon color with the hue of dried blood. The nose feels pungent, oxidative and very tertiary with aged aromas of beef jerky, some soy sauce, a little bit of malty Barley Wine, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a hint of earth and a touch of cranberry sauce. The wine feels old, pungent and oxidative on the palate with a medium body and tired flavors of licorice, sharp nutty notes of rancio, some salty notes of soy sauce, a little bit of beef jerky and hints of sous-bois and damp leaves. The wine is high in acidity but all the tannins have fully resolved and the wine shows no tannic grip. The finish is dry, old and oxidative with a long aftertaste of soy sauce, some beef jerky, a little bit of earth, light licorice tons, a hint of malty character and a touch of wizened red fruit.
This was just completely over the hill. The wine has gotten so oxidative that it isn't even an enjoyable, anonymous tertiary wine - just a mere husk of what might've been a more impressive Pomerol at some point in the paste. 110€ down the drain. (NR/flawed) -
1995 Château Le Bon Pasteur - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (13.2.2023)
Typically the blend is Merlot (4/5) and Cabernet Franc (1/5). Vinified in stainless steel tanks, aged for 15-16 months in predominantly new oak barriques. 13% alcohol.
Deep, quite dark and still relatively youthful ruby-red color. The nose feels fragrant, somewhat sweet-toned and quite complex with aromas of juicy dark plums and ripe bilberries, some fresh cherry tones, a little bit of cigar box, light sweetly-spiced nuances of cloves and allspice, a hint of licorice root and a touch of toasty oak. At first the nose comes across as pretty youthful, but with more air the aromas start to get more tertiary. The wine is quite youthful and firm on the palate with a medium, body and ripe yet dry flavors of fresh red plums and juicy black cherries, some bilberry tones, a little bit of sweet raspberry-driven red fruit, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of red licorice and a touch of sweeter oak spice. However, in just half an hour or so, the wine starts to feel very aged and tertiary - the youthful fruit nuances recede quite quickly, leaving a rather aged and even somewhat tired wine behind. The structure relies mostly on the quite high acidity rather than on the supple, ripe tannins. The finish is long, juicy and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of cherries and fresh red plums, ripe blueberries, a little bit of licorice root, light woody notes of cedar, sweeter hints of cloves and vanilla and a hint of brambly raspberry.
At first this was a pretty lovely effort, coming across as more harmonious and balanced than the slightly more sweeter-toned and softer 1996 vintage we tasted some years ago. However, what was in common with both these vintages was that they lost their vibrancy remarkably fast, turning quite tired and even slightly oxidative over the course of one evening. While this wine was thoroughly enjoyable right after it was poured, it started to feel surprisingly evolved and tertiary in just half an hour and when I returned to the wine after some two hours, it was already very old and tired. My score reflects how the wine performed soon after opening a bottle - meaning I don't recommend letting the wine aerate for extended periods of time. Just decant the wine off the deposit and serve it immediately. At approx. 70€ I'd say this wine was a bit expensive for the quality.
(90 points) -
1990 Château Grand Mayne - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (13.2.2023)
Typically a blend of Merlot (4/5), Cabernet Franc (1/5) and occasionally a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinified in oak vats, aged for 18 months in predominantly new oak barriques. 13% alcohol.
Deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The fine-tuned nose feels somewhat sweet-toned and enjoyably evolved with layered aromas of wizened black cherries, some old leather, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light floral notes of violets and lilacs, a fragrant hint of sweet exotic spices and a woody touch of pencil shavings. The wine is ripe and velvety yet firm and dry on the palate with a full body and complex, layered flavors of licorice root and ripe raspberry, some succulent notes of dark plums, a little bit of old leather, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of blueberry and a touch of savory meat. The flavors are suggestive of sweetness and ripeness, yet the overall feel is mostly very savory and umami-driven with moderately aged yet not old flavors. The rather high acidity and gently grippy, textural medium-plus tannins keep the wine enjoyably structured without making it too tough or aggressive. The finish is long, silky and moderately grippy with a harmonious aftertaste of juicy black cherries, some old leathery tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of blueberry and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A fantastic, harmonious and very attractive Saint-Émilion with superb sense of finesse and balance. If the wine has seen lots of new oak at some point, it really doesn't show anymore; the emphasis is solely on the vibrant fruit flavors and more evolved, savory meaty tones. Although the wine isn't as firm, structured and grippy as some Bordeaux 1990s, the wine still shows good sense of firmness and precision, not coming across as soft and fruity as many Merlot-driven St. Émilions usually do. As a whole, the wine is in a great spot right now, but as it doesn't seem that old at the moment, I wouldn't be surprised if the wine continued to improve for a handful of years more. Drink or keep. Definitely among the best St. Émilions I've tasted, highly recommended.
(95 points) -
1990 Château Chasse-Spleen - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (13.2.2023)
Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65-70%), Merlot (30-25%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Aged for approximately 12 months in oak barriques (40% new). 12,8% alcohol.
Rather deep, moderately opaque and quite luminous black cherry color. The nose feels savory, complex and slightly rustic with aromas of dried flowers, ripe blackcurrants and wizened red berries, some licorice root tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of pipe tobacco, a bretty touch of barnyard and an autumnal whiff of damp, decomposing leaves. The wine feels dry, vibrant and moderately ripe with a rather full body and nuanced flavors of wild strawberries and wizened Bing cherries, some savory notes of earth and dried dark fruits, a little bit of licorice root, light woody notes of pencil shavings and cedary cigar box, a bretty hint of leathery funk and a touch of ripe blackcurrant. The structure relies more on the quite high acidity than on the rather resolved yet still quite firm medium-plus tannins. The finish is juicy yet also dry and savory with a long, complex aftertaste of tobacco and wizened dark plums, some evolved notes of dried red berries and savory meaty tones, a little bit of licorice root, light bretty nuances of farmyard, a hint of leather and a woody touch of cedar.
A fine, beautifully evolved vintage of Chasse-Spleen. There seems to be a tiniest amount of bretty funk in the wine that really doesn't distract or muddle the fruit, only adds a little bit of nice, rustic complexity to the flavors. There is just enough vibrant, relatively youthful fruit to make the wine feel very much alive, even if there is quite a bit of more evolved and savory stuff from the more tertiary aromatics. Structurally the wine is still firm and very balanced, but age has resolved the tannins quite a bit so that the wine doesn't come across as particularly tough or grippy, just firm and nicely structured. Great stuff, priced according to its quality at 65€.
(93 points) -
1986 Château Chasse-Spleen - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (13.2.2023)
Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65-70%), Merlot (30-25%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Aged for approximately 12 months in oak barriques (40% new). 12,8% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque and rather aged syrupy-brown appearance. The nose feels old, pungent and oxidative with aromas of salty liquorice and nutty rancio, some soy sauce, light earthy notes, a little bit of cold coffee and damp coffee grounds, an aldehydic hint of sorrel and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine feels dry, old and oxidative on the palate with dull, tired flavors of nutty rancio, some salty liquorice, a little bit of damp earth, a hint of rancid walnuts and a touch of syrupy sweetness. The wine is high in acidity with a tiny bit of tannic grip. The finish is long, dull and oxidative with some tannic grip and tired flavors of soy sauce, nutty oxidation, some mushroomy funk and a little bit of damp earth.
Ugh, this bottle was just horribly oxidized. Based on the other TNs in CT, I'd chalk this up to just bottle variation - a 1986 Chasse-Spleen should not be this badly over the hill at this age. 65€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) -
1986 Château La Croix de Gay - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (13.2.2023)
Typically the wine is composed almost entirely of Merlot with only a tiny addition of Cabernet Franc. Aged for 18 months in barriques, of which about half are replaced annually. 12,5% alcohol.
Luminous, moderately translucent and still relatively youthful dark ruby color with faint evolved brick-red highlights. The nose feels attractively fragrant, harmonious and slightly sweet-toned with nuanced aromas of juicy black cherries, some distinctive arrack tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light evolved nuances of wizened blackcurrants and old leather, a hint of dusty wood and a touch of forest floor. The wine feels dry, firm and somewhat evolved on the palate with a medium body and harmonious, complex flavors of fresh blackcurrants and wizened red cherries, some arrack tones, a little bit of tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of forest floor and a meaty touch of roasted game. The overall feel is still remarkably firm and structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy yet not aggressive tannins. The finish is firm, long and juicy with layered flavors of ripe blackcurrants and dried chokeberries, some woody notes of cedar and pencil shavings, a little bit of old leather, light nuances of pipe tobacco, a characterful hint of arrack and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A fine, wonderfully evolved and still rather firm and structured Pomerol with great sense of depth, complexity and intensity. The wine stood out in a Bordeaux tasting with its distinctive nuance of arrack, which might or might've not come from new oak - however it might be, it didn't really distract but just added to the complexity here, lending a sort of sweet lift to the wine's otherwise more savory flavors. The color here was remarkably youthful compared to the other wines of similar age, but on the palate the wine seemed much more evolved - as is appropriate for a wine +35 years old. All in all, this was a terrific effort and one of the most rewarding Pomerol wines I've had in a long while. Not particularly affordable at approx. 75€, but delivers for the price. Very nice, highly recommended.
(94 points) -
1976 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (13.2.2023)
Mainly a blend Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, rounded off with a tiny addition of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Bottled in an old 0,73-liter bottle.
Evolved and quite translucent dried-blood color with an oxidative maroon hue. The nose feels savory and noticeably tertiary yet not too old or tired with evolved aromas of beef consommé, some wizened blackcurrant tones, a little bit of tobacco, light smoky tones, a hint of earth and a touch of phenolic spice and old leather suggestive of a tiny bit of brett. The wine feels dry, evolved and savory with quite tertiary flavors of earth and meaty umami, some old leathery tones, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, light autumnal notes of mulch and damp leaves, a hint of moist pouch tobacco and a touch of crunchy crowberry. The wine is quite high in acidity with textural medium tannins. The finish is juicy, dry and meaty with very little tannic grip and a moderately long, tertiary aftertaste of meat pâté, some dried dark fruits, a little bit of tobacco, light earthy tones, a hint of old leathery funk and a touch of moist coffee grounds.
Although the wine was still quite sophisticated and thoroughly enjoyable, it seemed somewhat past its peak and rather tired in nature. The wine isn't fully oxidized yet, but I doubt this wine is going to get any better from here. Definitely high time to drink up - this is getting quite deep into the anonymous old wine territory at the time of writing. Maybe not really worth the 80€ anymore.
(85 points) -
1995 Château de Rayne-Vigneau - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (13.2.2023)
A blend of Sémillon (74%), Sauvignon Blanc (24%) and Muscadelle (2%). Aged for 24 months in oak barriques (40 to 50% new). 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous and quite deep amber color with a burnished golden-yellow rim. The seductive nose feels rich, moderately concentrated and somewhat evolved with sweet, layered aromas of intense saffron-driven exotic spice and maple syrup, some honeyed tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light dried apricot tones, a hint of burnt sugar or caramel and a touch of woody oak spice. The wine feels sweet, rich and slightly viscous on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of saffron and dried apricots, some tinned pineapple tones, a little bit of burnt sugar bitterness, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of bruised apple and a touch of browned butter. The high acidity lends good sense of structure and energy to the wine, offsetting some of the wine's oily, viscous texture. The finish is sweet, concentrated and slightly sticky yet still surprisingly fresh with an impressively long and quite intense aftertaste of caramel and saffron, some burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of bruised apple, light MSG-like umami tones, a hint of smoke and a touch of honeycomb.
A beautiful, fantastic and wonderfully evolved Sauternes that shows lots of depth, power and weight without coming across as too rich or clumsy at any point - on the contrary, even if the age has concentrated some of the flavors and mouthfeel of the wine, the sweetness seems to have subsided over the years as well. Judging by the rich texture, there must've been a bit more residual sugar in the wine than how sweet it tasted. The combination of power, concentration, wonderfully evolved flavors and bright, high acidity made this a superb example of developed Sauternes - although it feels the wine wasn't fully mature yet. Although it is drinking mighty well right now, I'd say there is still some potential for further improvement to be had with extended aging. Drink or keep.
(95 points)
Posted from CellarTracker