Reporting from a BYO Pinot Noir blind tasting we had last fall. Everything was permitted as long as the wine was Pinot Noir in some form or another. Fortunately the overall quality was enjoyably high and lots of terrific wines were had.
Eventually we ran out of Pinot Noirs, so we had to resort to some non-Pinot extra bottles. Couple of them were opened only after I took this lineup photo, which is why they are not pictured here.
- 2018 Sefa Wine Pinot Noir - Kosovo, Rahoveci Valley (4.9.2023)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, youthful and rather translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels fresh and fruit-forward with aromas of brambly black raspberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of blueberry, light floral and slightly vegetal notes of heather, a primary hint of raspberry jellies and a leafy touch of herbaceous character. The wine feels dry, youthful and a bit soft on the palate with a medium body and berry-driven flavors of crunchy cranberries and crowberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of ripe raspberry, light leafy green tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a primary touch of raspberry candies. The overall structure is quite soft and round, thanks to the medium-plus acidity and very light and supple - almost nonexistent - tannins. The finish is youthful, dry and supple with a fruity, medium-long aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some candied primary fruit notes, light herby-floral notes of heather, a little bit of ripe cranberry and a touch of brambly black raspberry.
A nice, fruity and rather simple little Pinot Noir. Nothing to complain but nothing to swoon over, either. I was surprised that this wine came from Kosovo, though - this was a clean and well-executed wine considering it came from a country not known for their wines. A perfectly quaffable weekday red, but nothing more, really. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 16€.
(84 points) - 1996 Louis Jadot Chorey-les-Beaune - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune (4.9.2023)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, somewhat hazy brick-red color with a maroon-to-syrupy brown hue. The nose feels very odd and noticeably cheesy with aromas of Appenzeller cheese and barnyard, some evolved notes of wizened dark fruits, light pruney tones, a hint of ripe raspberry and a touch of old leather. The wine is dry, evolved and tertiary on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of saline aldehydic character, light sanguine notes of iron, a hint of wizened red plums and a touch of raisiny dark fruit. The wine is high in acidity with resolved, very gently grippy tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and gently grippy with a old, complex aftertaste of tart cranberry, some leathery tones, a little bit of barnyard, light pruney nuances, a hint of lingonberry and a touch of funk.
This wine was much better shape than the previous bottle we had a year ago - which was either completely dead or slightly corked. Yet still, I really can't say this was a classic, beautifully aged red Burgundy - the nose was just weird with very funky notes of stinky Alpine cheeses and the flavor profile was somewhat thinned out. If you could get past the rather distracting nose, the wine was actually fully drinkable and quite enjoyable. Perhaps this wine was worth the 20€, but not much more.
(86 points) - 2013 Toni Jost Martinsthaler Rödchen Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheingau (4.9.2023)
14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark, brooding, only somewhat translucent blackish cherry-red color. The nose feels dark-toned and somewhat toasty with aromas of coffee, some ripe black cherry, light woody tones, a little bit of peppery spice and earthy Pinosity, a hint of sweet dark fruits and a touch of cacao. The wine feels ripe, big and somewhat chewy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and rich flavors of dark forest fruits, some juicy black cherries, a little bit of strawberry, light toasty notes of mocha oak, hints of spicy Pinosity and coniferous forest and a touch of peppery spice. The overall feel is quite supple and maybe a bit on the soft side, thank to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and the very light, mellow tannins. The finish is ripe, soft and sweet-toned with a medium-long aftertaste of black cherries and dark berries, some earthy tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a hint of ripe strawberry and a touch of savory wood spice.
Based on those distinctive, spicy Spätburgunder notes, I was in Germany almost from the start. However, I was expecting the wine to be a younger wine from a warmer vintage and perhaps from Baden - it came to me as a surprise that this was a 10-yo Rheingau Spätburgunder from the rainy 2013 vintage! I must say that the rather heavy-handed oak use did not manage to win me over. I prefer a lighter, more delicate style of Pinot Noir.
(87 points) - 2007 Domaine Tortochot Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from a 0,42-hectare parcel in Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin. Typically aged for 18 months in new oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite translucent and somewhat evolved pomegranate-red color with a slightly maroon hue. The nose feels dark-toned and slightly sweetish with aromas of spicy Pinosity, some dark forest fruit tones, a little bit of dried flowers, light meaty nuances, a hint of juicy black cherry and a faint touch of smoke. The wine feels ripe yet very firm and intense on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of meaty umami, some sweet-toned dark fruits, a little bit of sweet toasty oak, light earthy nuances, a hint of tobacco and a touch of crunchy dark berries. The structure relies mostly on the fresh, bright acidity as the tannins feel quite supple and gentle. The finish is long, nuanced and slightly grippy with an intense, sweet-savory aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light nuances of loose pouch tobacco, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of earthy Pinosity.
A sophisticated, harmonious and wonderfully focused Mazis-Chambertin. The wine carries its new oak influence surprisingly well, although the toasty nuances punch through at times, making the wine feel a bit polished and anonymous. However, based on the freshness, the intensity of those vibrant fruit flavors and still relatively youthful overall profile, I have a feeling this wine can still develop further and pick up some additional finesse as it ages. While not the most distinguished red Grand Cru Burg, this was a lovely and very balanced effort all the same. Maybe not entirely worth the 80€, at which the wine was purchased, but not a rip-off, either.
(92 points) - NV Bartnicki Père & Fils Champagne Carte Noire Brut - France, Champagne (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir, but no idea about the base vintage. The label says only "L.01" on lot number. 12% alcohol.
Lemon-yellow color. The nose feels rather toasty with aromas of ripe citrus fruits, some nutty notes of autolysis, light leesy notes of yeast, a little bit of French white bread, a hint of spicy red apple and a faint touch of creaminess. The wine feels fresh, somewhat toasty and pretty harmonious on the palate with a medium body, a fine and persistent mousse and pretty dry flavors of ripe red apple and cantaloupe, some zesty citrus fruit tones, a little bit of bready autolysis, light nutty tones, a hint of saline minerality and a faint creamy touch of rich custard character. The dosage lends a tiny bit of sweetness to the palate, but the high acidity keeps the overall feel fresh and structured. The finish is ripe, slightly evolved and still enjoyably fresh with a long, subtly sweet-toned aftertaste of ripe red apple, some autolytic notes of French bread and a little bit of nuttiness, light zesty citrus fruit tones, a creamy hint of evolved custard character and a touch of saline minerality.
A nice, sophisticated and not particularly much yet still quite pleasantly evolved Blanc de Noirs from the somewhat toasty / autolytic end of the spectrum. This is not overtly bready or nutty, but those elements are definitely there, lending the wine good sense of depth and complexity. While not the most distinctive Blanc de Noirs Champagne out there, this is still a lovely effort and a screaming bargain at just 14€. The wine is perfectly enjoyable right now, but I feel there is still room for further improvement; drink or keep.
(91 points) - 2016 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from a parcel in 1er Cru Santenots, planted in 1954. The wine is typically aged for 14-18 months in partly new oak barrels, the length of the aging depending on the vintage. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, rather dark and moderately translucent black raspberry color. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and sweet-toned with attractive, classically styled aromas of brambly black raspberries and crunchy lingonberries, some peppery tones, a little bit of earth, light stony mineral notes, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of ripe raspberry. The wine feels ripe and silky yet dry and precise on the palate with a medium body and vibrant, subtly sweet-toned flavors of black cherries and brambly raspberries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of earth, light tart lingonberry tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a faint touch of toasty oak spice. The overall feel is firm and balanced, thanks to the rather high acidity and medium tannins that feel very modest at first, but slowly pile up on the gums, adding good sense of grip to the wine. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and quite acid-driven with a dry, complex aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and tart lingonberries, some meaty umami notes, a little bit of earthy Pinosity, light peppery tones, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of ripe black raspberry.
A fine, nuanced and attractive 1er Cru Volnay. Still very youthful and more about future promise than immediate accessibility, but this is admittedly pretty lovely already now. There's a lot to love if opened now, but this wine will continue to age and evolve beautifully for years more. Terrific stuff.
(93 points) - 2019 Panizzi Pinot Nero Ermius - Italy, Tuscany, San Gimignano (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from the 14-yo La Ventola vineyard in San Gimignano, planted to the 777 clone. Harvested on 16th of September. 14,5% alcohol. Bottle #2746 of total 3000 bottles. Tasted blind.
Youthful, luminous and quite translucent raspberry red color with a faint pinkish hue. The nose feels ripe, fragrant and sunny with expressive aromas of spicy Pinosity and sweet black raspberry, some juicy black cherry tones, a little bit of fresh red plums, light heady notes of exotic spices and a hint of raw meat. The wine feels ripe yet fresh and precise on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of juicy black raspberries, some tart cranberry tones, a little bit of fresh cherry and red plum, light candied primary fruit tones, a hint of stony minerality and a ferrous touch of blood. The overall feel is firm and balanced, thanks to the rather high acidity and quite supple tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is ripe yet dry, somewhat grippy and pretty lengthy with a rather intense aftertaste of brambly black raspberry, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of fresh red plum, light stony mineral tones, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a primary touch of raspberry candies. The high alcohol remains remarkably well out of sight and out of mind.
Although the wine had a sort of sunny disposition, I was still quite surprised to learn this was a Tuscan Pinot Nero! Despite the ripeness and relatively high alcohol, the wine is surprisingly fresh, light and playful in nature, yet coming across as a serious and balanced Pinot Noir made in a very classical, sophisticated style. The overall feel is still very youthful - primary, even - and I'm sure the wine will benefit greatly from at least a few extra years. Most likely this wine will hold easily for another ten, if not more. Great stuff with lots of upside. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 43,50€.
(91 points) - 2017 Wijnkasteel Genoels-Elderen Pinot Noir Rood - Belgium, Haspengouw (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir made only in sufficiently warm vintages. Aged in new (50%) and once used (50%) oak barrels for 12 months, then blended together and left to marry for another 9 months in stainless steel tanks. 13,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep, somewhat translucent and quite youthful blackish-red color. The nose feels very stinky and heavily reduced at first, showing unpleasant aromas of rotten cauliflower and sewage, but opens up to reveal less disagreeable yet quite closed aromas of gunpowder smoke, some meaty tones, a little bit of sweet red fruit, light smoky notes of struck flint, a hint of crunchy redcurrant and a touch of pine needles. The wine feels dry, closed and somewhat dull on the palate with a light body and crunchy, subtle flavors of tart lingonberries, some smoky notes of struck flint, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light redcurrant tones and a hint of juicy red fruit. The wine is high in acidity with supple medium tannins. The finish is dry and crunchy with a little bit of tannic grip and a rather light and quite short aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light ferrous notes of blood, a reductive hint of gunpowder smoke and a touch of redcurrant.
The nose here was just super unpleasant at first, so everybody left the wine alone, just to let it get some air and blow the reduction off. After the wine had opened up, it performed much better, but was still a rather simple and uninspiring effort. Most likely the wine still suffered from reduction so much that it didn't show its best, but the wine didn't really open up during the whole evening, so I don't know how much air it calls for. Perhaps this is one of those wines that performs much better after a 24-hour decant? The wine didn't leave a particularly impressive impression. Feels heavily overpriced at 45€.
(70 points) - 2019 Birichino Pinot Noir Enz Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley (4.9.2023)
Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Total production four barrels. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, quite pale and very translucent raspberry red color with a youthful ruby hue and an almost colorless rim. The nose feels savory, beautifully fragrant and very Burgundian with attractive aromas of red-toned fruits and spicy Pinosity, some autumnal notes of damp coniferous forest, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light savory notes of gamey meat, a lifted hint of ethery VA and a touch of ripe cherry. The wine feels ripe and silky yet lively and airy on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of black raspberries and spicy Pinosity, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of blood orange, light peppery tones, a hint of forest floor and a crunchy touch of pomegranate. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, but the ample yet ripe and soft tannins lend good sense of firmness to the palate. The finish is long, dry and gently grippy with a ripe, juicy aftertaste of black raspberries and pomegranate, some tart cranberry tones, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light meaty tones, a lifted hint of ethery VA and a touch of succulent cherry-driven sweet red fruit.
A beautiful, fantastic and complex Pinot Noir that felt more Burgundian than many other Pinot Noirs in our tasting that actually were from Burgundy! Apart from its youthful color, the wine seemed a bit more evolved than what I expected from a 4-yo Cali Pinot, but nothing that would be alarming in any way. Although the wine might not age as long as a Grand Cru Burgundy, there's still lots of upside to this wine. Beautifully fresh, complex and harmonious stuff - it's very hard not to love this wine. Priced more or less according to its quality at 56€.
(94 points) - 2021 Sandhi Wines Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (4.9.2023)
13,2% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous and pretty translucent raspberry-red color with a youthful, subtly blueish hue. The nose feels fragrant, nuanced and wonderfully perfumed with slightly wild aromas of brambly raspberries, some zesty Chinotto notes, dried flowers and phenolic spicy tones that suggest a little bit of brett, light crunchy pomegranate tones, a hint of lingonberry, a lifted touch of ethery VA and a faint, dank and herby whiff of pot. The wine feels ripe, juicy and silky with a medium body and youthful, slightly sweet-toned flavors of black cherries and ripe raspberries, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of pomegranate juice, light primary nuances of red fruit jellies, bretty hints of slightly bitter phenolic spices and orange zest and a touch of wild strawberry. The overall feel is fresh, balanced and enjoyably sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and firm medium tannins. The finish is dry, juicy and slightly grippy with a long, berry-driven aftertaste of raspberries and red cherries, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light bitter notes of phenolic spices, a hint of wild strawberry and a touch of savory earthiness.
A beautiful, wonderfully perfumed and very harmonious Cali Pinot that is very fresh, lithe and delicate despite the fruit ripeness that adds a slightly sweet-toned dimension to the bright red-fruited flavors of the wine. There's also a tiniest bit of brett here, but its aromatics are from the spicy-floral-zesty end of the spectrum, not from the funky animal-barnyard end, which only adds to the depth and complexity here. The overall feel is still very youthful and noticeably fruit-forward, but there's still so much to like here already now. I'd leave the wine for at least a few years more, although I'm sure this will age and improve for probably another decade or so. A superb and eminently attractive Cali Pinot that tastes like Cali Pinot and not, say, Burgundy, yet shows exactly that kind of freshness and precision one can expect from a classic red Burgundy. Fantastic stuff.
(92 points) - 2021 Proud Primary Produce Pinot Noir Up the Mountain - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley (4.9.2023)
13% alcohol. tasted blind.
Luminous, youthful and translucent raspberry-red color with a pale, almost colorless rim. The nose feels open, expressive and fruit-forward with sappy aromas of cranberries and brambly raspberries, some spicy Pinosity, a little bit of woody oak spice, light sweeter notes of red cherries, a hint of chopped aromatic herbs and a touch of darker forest fruits. The wine feels quite ripe, firm and silky on the palate with a medium body and pure, vibrant flavors of juicy dark berries and wild strawberries, some red cherries, a little bit of spicy Pinosity, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a hint of pomegranate and a primary touch of raspberry jellies. The structure relies mostly on the fresh, high acidity as the light, supple tannins only contribute a tiny bit to the silky texture of the wine. The finish is youthful, long and fruity with a bright, ripe yet acid-driven aftertaste of cherries, some brambly raspberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light primary notes of raspberry jellies, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of pomegranate.
A light, supple and playful Pinot Noir brimming with pure, youthful Pinosity. Terrific stuff, albeit the wine is still a bit too young, still showing some candied primary fruit flavors. I'm sure this wine will be smashing once it gets out of this super primary phase, but this is enormously drinkable and enjoyable already now. Maybe not super serious, but nothing banal or too simple, either. Recommended.
(90 points) - 1993 Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (4.9.2023)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, translucent and moderately deep maroon color with a tertiary syrupy-brown hue. The nose feels evolved, even quite old, yet still pretty attractive with layered tertiary aromas of earth and meat stew, some smoky tones, a little bit of old leather, light sweeter notes of wizened cranberries and ripe dark berries and an autumnal hint of damp leaves, forest floor and decay. The wine feels dry, savory and silky on the palate with a medium body and nuanced tertiary flavors of tart lingonberries and dried cranberries, some oxidative notes of beef jerky and meat stew, a little bit of forest floor, light leathery notes, a hint of tobacco and a touch of stony minerality. The structure feels quite prominent as the fruit flavors are slowly fading away, revealing a firm framework of high acidity and still moderately unresolved and somewhat grippy tannins. The finish is dry, savory and rather grippy with a long, evolved aftertaste of wizened dark berries, some autumnal notes of forest floor and decay, a little bit of salt-cured meat, light tart notes of lingonberries, a hint of old leather and a touch of smoke.
A sophisticated and still rather structure-driven village-level Burgundy that is very evolved, either at its plateau of maturity or very slightly past it, but still thoroughly enjoyable. The firm structure does call for some food, just to soften the wine down a bit, but the flavors are so nuanced and delicate that the wine can't stand anything too bold or hearty. As the wine is so tertiary, it is obvious that it won't benefit from any further aging - better to drink sooner rather than later. Good value at approx. 40€.
(93 points) - 2016 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (4.9.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from thee vineyards in Vosne-Romanée: Aux Réas, Bossières, and Mezière. The fruit is first cold-soaked for approximately 3 days, then fermented spontaneously and macerated for 3 weeks. Aged for 18-24 months in oak barrels, of which up to 1/3 are renewed annually. Bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, youthful and quite translucent dark ruby-red color. The nose feels ripe, dark-toned and somewhat sweetly-fruited aromas of black raspberries, some juicy black cherry tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light dark plummy tones, a ferrous hint of blood, a touch of wild strawberry and a whiff of blackberry juice. The wine feels ripe yet firm and balanced on the palate with a medium body and more red-than-dark-toned flavors of crunchy redcurrants and ripe raspberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light sweet notes of toasty oak spice, a hint of juicy dark fruit and a touch of peppery spice. The glossy oak tones lend a slightly polished feel to the wine. The overall feel is enjoyably structured, thanks to the high acidity and ripe, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, slightly sweetly-fruited and gently grippy with a dark-toned aftertaste of ripe dark forest fruits, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light black cherry nuances, a hint of earth and a touch of toasted wood.
Compared to the 2010 vintage of this same wine that I tasted a few months earlier, this wine came across as slightly more polished and oaky - and a bit less structured, too. Otherwise the wines were pretty similar, stylistically. Although this 2016 won't magically turn into a more structured wine with additional aging, I'm pretty sure the somewhat overt oaky tones will integrate just fine with the fruit with further cellaring. At the moment the wine is an otherwise balanced and still very youthful village-level Burg, but I'd rather drink something a bit less oaky. Let the wine wait for another 6-8 years and that should do it. Priced according to its quality at 35€.
(90 points) - 2012 Lucienne Pinot Noir Doctor's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands (4.9.2023)
14,5% alcohol and 6,3 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Dense, not particularly extracted yet still almost fully opaque blackish-red color that isn't young anymore, but hasn't developed any evolved brownish hues either. The nose, on the other hand, feels evolved and moderately tertiary with rather sweetish aromas of raisins and toasty mocha oak, some malty notes of barrel-aged Imperial Stout, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light minty nuances, a hint of cola and a touch of roasted meat. The wine feels ripe, dense and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a full body and lush flavors of cherry liqueur and dark raisiny fruit, some dried dates, a little bit of mocha latte, light cola tones, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of cola. The overall feel is somewhat flabby - fat, even - with the medium acidity and soft, fully resolved medium-minus tannins. The sweetness in the taste makes me think there might be a dash of residual sugar in the wine, but it could be just the ripeness and evolved dried-fruit flavors. The finish is ripe, long and slightly hot with a soft, sweet-toned aftertaste of dried dates and raisins, some toasty mocha oak, a little bit of coffee liqueur, light bittersweet nuances of dark chocolate, a hint of wizened black cherries and a touch of cola.
Although somewhat evolved, the wine doesn't feel too old yet - I think the wine still has some mileage left in its tank. However, I must say I don't think age has benefited the wine; it feels just too soft, flabby and alcoholic. The age has just turned those vibrant fruit flavors into dull, sweet-toned dried-fruit flavors without adding any true tertiary complexity to the wine. Instead of getting integrated with the fruit flavors, the oak seems to have only moved a bit more to the fore. All in all, this was quite a disappointment. Not in my wheelhouse, not at all.
(78 points) - 2017 Knipser Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Germany, Pfalz (4.9.2023)
Aged for 24 months in new French oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol, 0,5 g/l residual sugar and 5,8 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent cherry-red color. Somewhat smoky, a bit toasty and slightly reductive nose that calls for some air, slowly revealing perfumed aromas of cherries and dark forest fruits, some peppery Spätburgunder spice, a little bit of crunchy lingonberry, light fragrant notes of coniferous forest, a woody hint of savory oak spice, a touch of ripe raspberry and a whiff of fresh red plums. The wine feels ripe yet firm, fresh and even somewhat tightly-knit on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of dark forest fruits, sweeter notes of ripe black raspberries and black cherries, some savory nuances of meaty umami, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of earth and a touch of peppery Spätburgunder character. The wine shows impressive sense of structure with its high acidity and ample, moderately grippy yet still not aggressive tannins. The finish is dry, firm and sinewy with moderate tannic grip and a long aftertaste of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light earthy tones, a hint of toasted oak spice and a touch of smoky, slightly peppery Spätburgunder character.
I was pretty sure that this wine was a German Pinot Noir from the first sniff, but I was surprised that the wine had been aged for two years in new French oak barrels, because it sure didn't show any of that oak! Sure, the wine showed some toasty oak tones and it was obvious that the wine had seen some new oak barrels, but 100% new oak for two years? Wow. Goes to show how important are properly (not too heavily) toasted good-quality barrels and wine itself that can take on that oak! At the moment the wine is maybe a bit too tightly-knit and woody for full pleasure, but since the wine shows such great sense of balance, intensity and structure, I'm sure this wine will age gracefully for years. An excellent, classically built and quite substantial yet balanced GG Spätburgunder with lots of upside. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 2018 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Pinot Noir Sous la Tour - France, Jura, Arbois (4.9.2023)
An organically farmed single-vineyard Pinot Noir located just below the Tour de Curon, hence the name "Below the Tower". Vinified in whole clusters, fermented spontaneously in open oak vats, aged for a year in 228-liter oak pièces. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Translucent, moderately dark cherry-red color that doesn't seem young nor particularly aged, either. The brooding, dark-toned nose seems a bit sauvage with aromas of dark forest fruits, some bretty notes of leathery funk, a little bit of sweet black cherry and ripe bilberry, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of sandy soil, a fragrant touch of orange rind and a whiff of red gooseberry. The wine feels rich, juicy and supple yet pretty firmly-structured on the palate with a medium body and slightly wild flavors of ripe cherries and black raspberries, some funky notes of saddle leather, a little bit of wild strawberry, light gravelly and stony mineral tones, a hint of fresh bilberry and a slightly bitter touch of phenolic spice. The rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins make the wine feel quite tightly-knit in structure. The finish is long, juicy and somewhat grippy with a slightly wild aftertaste of brambly raspberries and ripe red cherries, some wild strawberries, light bretty notes of sweaty leather saddle and smoky phenolic spice, a little bit of stony minerality, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of crunchy cranberry.
A surprisingly funky yet also very sophisticated, harmonious and tasty Pinot Noir with good sense of freshness, focus and structure. The wine doesn't feel particularly young, but it doesn't really show any age, either. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve and improve for years more, but it is also thoroughly enjoyable already now. Delicious stuff - as long as you can tolerate some rustic funk in your Pinot Noir!
(91 points) - 2011 Staatsweingut Freiburg Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Germany, Baden (4.9.2023)
13% alcohol.
Luminous, still remarkably youthful and moderately translucent dark ruby-red color. The nose feels quite youthful and vibrant with aromas of dark forest fruits, some brambly black raspberries, a little bit of forest floor, light woody notes of old oak, hints of cranberry sauce and ripe red cherry, a sweeter touch of toasted oak spice and a whiff of pipe tobacco. The wine feels firm, savory and quite structured on the palate with a medium body and bright, dry flavors of cranberries and sour cherry bitterness, some tobacco, light sweeter nuances of wizened strawberry, a little bit of woody old oak, a savory hint of meaty umami and a touch of brambly black raspberry. The high acidity and moderately grippy tannins lend a good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is dense, savory and quite grippy with a long and rather intense aftertaste of black cherries, some wizened strawberries, a little bit of cranberry sauce, light woody notes of old oak, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A surprisingly stern, dry and youthful GG Pinot Noir made in a remarkably sophisticated, more Burgundian than typically German style of Spätburgunder. I had quite low expectations of this wine, seeing how it was 12-yo warm-vintage Pinot Noir from a state winery - yet it turned out to be very fine, structured and dead-serious effort that was remarkably youthful for its age! I guess the stelvin screwcap had helped in keeping the wine so youthful and fresh - I must admit I'd rather have a 12-yo wine show some signs of age instead of coming across as not older than 2 or 3 years. Anyways, this was a very positive surprise! Recommended.
(92 points) - 2019 Enrique Mendoza Pinot Noir Alicante - Spain, Valencia, Alicante (4.9.2023)
A single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Alicante. Aged for 12 months in barricas. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Translucent and somewhat evolved cherry-red color with a slightly maroon-brown hue. The nose feels sweetish, sunny yet somewhat dull with aromas of ripe strawberries, some tobacco, light evolved notes of dried dark fruits, a little bit of forest floor, a hint of blackberry jam, a touch of blueberry juice and a musty whiff of mushroomy funk. The wine feels broad, sweet-toned and rather heavy-set with a full body and slightly jammy flavors of strawberries, some cooked red fruits, a little bit of soft dark plum, light blackberry jam tones, a boozy hint of alcohol and a touch of dull earthiness. The overall feel is rather blowzy and lacking in structure, thanks to the low acidity and ripe, almost nonexistent tannins. The finish is soft, warm and sweet-toned with a jammy, medium-long aftertaste of black cherries, some stewed strawberries, a little bit of soft dark plum, light earthy notes, a tertiary hint of meat stew and a touch of dried dark fruits.
A soft, dull and heavily overripe Pinot Noir that doesn't really show any varietal character - just jammy fruit flavors and way too much alcohol. The overall feel is way too fat and blowzy due to the lack of structure, making the wine a chore to drink. Furthermore, I was surprised how young the wine was, because its evolved qualities made me think of a wine twice as old. There are very few spots that suit Pinot Noir and, based on this wine, Alicante is not among them. At approx. 11€, this wasn't a pricey wine, but it didn't manage to deliver for the price. Avoid.
(66 points) - 2021 Nittnaus Zweigelt Zorra - Austria, Burgenland (4.9.2023)
100% organically farmed Zweigelt. Fermented spontaneously. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 11,5% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 6,3 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Pale, hazy and quite translucent seared salmon color. The nose feels very savory, reductive and meaty with initial aromas of meat stew, split pea soup and smoked ham, slowly opening up to reveal notes of cooked carrots, some ripe raspberry tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light smoky notes of struck match reduction and a hint of damp earth. The wine feels dry, somewhat reductive and quite understated on the palate with a medium body and light flavors of pea soup, some crunchy redcurrant, light appley tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, a hint of cooked carrot and a touch of stony minerality. The medium-to-moderately high acidity keeps the wine in balance, but doesn't really lend much freshness or intensity to the flavors. The finish is light, dry and quite reductive with a modest, medium-long aftertaste of saline minerality, some pea soup, a little bit of red apple, light smoky notes of flinty reduction, a hint of cooked carrot and a touch of wet rocks.
A mild, understated and too reductive rosé wine that suffers badly from the off notes, probably from the excessive reduction. I guess this wine might turn out ok, if it was left open for 24 hours, but we didn't have such time in our tasting. As the wine didn't get much better during the evening, I must rate the wine as I tasted it. At 24,99€, this felt heavily overpriced for the quality.
(77 points) - 2017 Vignaioli di Santo Stefano Moscato d'Asti - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti (4.9.2023)
5,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels very fragrant and floral at first with musky, perfumed aromas of rose petals and grapey fruit, then settling a bit down to exhibit aromas of developed honeyed character, some sweet grapey tones, a little bit of lemon marmalade and light perfumed floral nuances. The wine feels lively, quite sweet yet still surprisingly fresh on the palate with a light-to-medium body and layered flavors of lemon marmalade, some ripe grapey fruit, a little bit of honeyed richness, light steely mineral tones, a sharp hint of Granny Smith apple and a touch of pear juice. The overall feel is not particularly young anymore, but the wine doesn't feel old, either. The high acidity and gently prickly carbonation lend good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is medium-to-moderately long, refreshing and moderately sweet with a bright, fruity aftertaste of apple juice, some ripe pear, a little bit of steely minerality, light honeyed tones, a hint of grapey fruit and a touch of Sultana raisin.
Unsurprisingly, my first guess was a bubbly Moscato, most likely from Asti. This is pretty easily identifiable for the genre, but I must admit that the wine shows good sense of freshness, balance and nuance for what it is. One might expect a typical Moscato would reach its apogee after just a year or two, but this wine seems to be still on an upward trajectory at 6 years of age! Admittedly, the most perfumed floral tones seem to fade quite quickly now, but those more evolved notes of honeyed richness and Sultana raisins make up for everything. Yet still, the wine feels a bit pricey for the quality at 13,95€ for a half bottle.
(91 points) - 2016 Meridiana Chardonnay Isis - Malta, DOK Malta Superiore (4.9.2023)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels clean, somewhat yellow-toned and a bit reticent with light aromas of tropical fruits, some cantaloupe, a little bit of sweet red apple, a hint of hay and a touch of chopped aromatic herbs. The wine feels dry, clean and slightly evolved on the palate with a light-to-medium body and flavors of fresh citrus fruits, some yellow apple tones, a little bit of hay, light herby tones, a hint of cantaloupe and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is dry and juicy with a moderately long aftertaste of fresh red apples, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of fresh citrus fruit, a hint of Mediterranean herbs and a touch of tangy salinity.
A nice, balanced and enjoyable Chardonnay. Nothing particularly memorable or interesting here, but nothing to complain about, either. Compared to the somewhat weird, rather reductive and quite vegetal 2015 vintage, this vintage was miles better. I doubt the wine will evolve into something particularly thrilling or complex with additional aging, so I really don't see much point in cellaring this wine further, even if the wine doesn't seem to be falling apart anytime soon. Drink or keep for a handful of years more.
(87 points) - 2022 Weingut Kirsten Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Jo Go - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4.9.2023)
7,5% alcohol and 79,5 g/l residual sugar. Tasted blind.
Pale lime-green color with faint lemon-yellow highlights. The nose feels rather reductive at first with aromas of skunky Böckser; with air, the nose slowly reveals aromas of primary grapey fruit, some lemon marmalade tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light smoky notes of struck flint, a candied hint of gummi bear and a floral touch of apple blossom. It feels as though the nose could be nice, but the overhanging, sulfurous aromas of Böckser make it hard to appreciate the aromas fully. The wine feels quite sweet and rather primary on the palate with a somewhat round medium body and quite rich flavors of grape jelly, some lemon marmalade, light musky floral tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a primary hint of gummi bear and a touch of lychee. The acidity feels high enough to keep the wine in balance, but the overall feel is still slightly soft and viscous. The finish is youthful, rich and moderately sweet with a medium-long aftertaste of grape jelly, some primary notes of pear drops, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light stony mineral notes, a reductive hint of hard-boiled eggs and a touch of musky floral character.
A tasty but also quite a bit too primary and way too reductive Riesling that suffers badly from the skunky Böckser character. I guess one could get those skunky tone to dissipate with 24 to 48 hours of aeration, but if one wants to drink the wine on a short notice - tough luck. At least for now, this wine isn't really cut up for the task. It feels like this could be a nice wine, but since both the nose and the taste are so heavily dominated by the sulfurous hard-boiled egg notes, the wine doesn't really hit the mark. Furthermore, even though the wine doesn't feel fat or flabby, I think such a sweet, rich Riesling could benefit from a higher level of acidity. All in all, this was a pretty good wine, but nothing beyond that.
(87 points)
Posted from CellarTracker