Yeah, the 2006 is seriously scrummy but I suggest any Pinotophile driven by the quest to put supremely ambrosial things in their mouths stop at nothing to get some of the 2009 - it was unquestionably a spiffing high-point amongst all of those throbbingly attractive 2009s I’ve been fortunate to try. I was also distinctly stimulated, and more than a little surprised, by Frederic Esmonin’s Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - totally toothsome and not priced at a level that will make one’s credit card smoke.
2007 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (1/31/2011)
Tasted one day after trying the cracking good '06 (see TN). High-toned kirsch on the nose, with nuances of blood orange, spices, and freshly chopped herbs, framed by tangy acidity. Moderately long, iron/mineral-driven finish. Increasingly complex with air. The palate seems a tad leaner and tarter than the '06, and not as meaty/savory – perhaps simply because it’s a year younger? Another impressive effort, which at this early stage I would peg as just a touch less special than the '06. (90 pts.)
If I were a Burgundy basher, I might point out that the consensus greatest village Burgundy out there is a 91 point wine that costs $60 and is extremely difficult to find. But I’m not, so forget I said that . . .
The two village red wines I have the most of in the cellar are Roumier’s Chambolle and Dujac’s Morey St.-Denis. I’ll give the nod to Dujac as I love the whole bunch smokiness and perfume that these wines have on release, the silky texture and the way the wine seems to never shut down yet provide much pleasure over several decades. Recent bottles of 1980, 1988 and 1993 have all showed brilliantly well and younger wines such as the 01 are super.
Haven’t had any of Rouget '98’s at all from memory, but will keep my eyes out…
I remember when I opened the '05 Rouget (to drink blind), I tasted it and the first option that came to mind straight away was that I would ask if it was “GC or not…” and off course everyone went the GC option…a great little wine.
Mugnier’s Chambolle is also one very special village wine and my favorite in Chambolle but Rouget’s Vosne is on a whole other level especially with 10+ years of age…
Though I think it’s on the same “level” as the Mugneret, just different, it is at the very top of that heap. I will go a step further and say that , in my experience, his Vosne “Les Beax Monts” is as good as any red 1er cru in Burgundy that I’ve ever experienced…year after year…and a great QPR, too. His uncle, Henri J., left his with a great legacy in those two Vosnes, along with other things, too. (Obviously, the Cros Parantoux gets all the “respect”, but the BM is, in my view, in the same league, IMO, and a whole lot better value, too.)
The Les Beaux Monts is very high quality, no doubt about that. Served an '00 also last year and again, everyone thought at the time this was a GC wine.
Didn’t look like and '00 either, with (I think from memory) most guesses coming in at an '05…quite a structured wine with depth to it…
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (2/2/2011)
After tasting the '06, '07, and now '08 M-G V-R over three consecutive evenings, I would peg this at the same qualitative level as the '06, which is to say, a brilliant village wine. This has the savory, almost brothy/meaty character of the '06, albeit in a more tightly-wound state today (although this bottle was by no means shut down). Complex, perfumed aromatics; palate of ripe dark cherries, blood orange, and spices, framed by a hint of wood and refreshing, zesty acidity. This needs about 3-5 years to round into form, IMO. (91 pts.)
This wine to me has been inconsistent since 2002 with a few very good years and some not so good years and it is unrelated to vintage quality. Not sure what is up with this winery…Gary