This was one of those weird tastings where got really out of hand.
This started off as a tasting of older NV Champagnes. The person who threw the tasting had accumulated a good number of old NV Champagnes over the years - most of these bottles were purchased as parts of larger lots from vendors in Italy (meaning that most of these bottles also had Italian importer’s labels on them).
But the number of the bottles we tasted seemed to increase to a rather ridiculous number. First gradually, then suddenly. First off, somebody brought a freshly purchased Pol Roger, just to serve as means to calibrate one’s palate. Then, in the occasions when we had a bottle that was in a lousy condition, but the person conducting the tasting knew he had another one of the same label, he brought that one in “as a replacement”. Quite often the replacement wasn’t any better.
Finally, when we had went through a ridiculous amount of bottles, but realized that we had actually tasted a relatively small number of bottles (because most of the wines ended up in spittoons), people started to pull out completely random bottles they had either taken with them, or had in their wine cabinets at the offsite we were having this tasting.
So in the end, we had almost two dozen old Champs and another eight bottles of extras that were poured fully blind, just for the heck of it (except that Domaine de l’Ecu Germinus, because we knew it was a wine that one needs to drink almost immediately - it can start off as a quite nice wine, but it turns heavily mousy in a matter of just minutes).
When we arranged the bottles for the final lineup photo, we realized one couldn’t fit them in one neat straight line across the two tables around which we were sitting:
Btw, the order of tasting here in this photo goes from right to left. And if anyone with more in-depth knowledge can identify the period from which any of these Champagnes are, based on their label, I’d be more than happy to know!
- NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir in equal proportions. 12,5% alcohol, dosage 9 g/l and 6 g/l acidity. No disgorgement date, but the wine is a recent purchase, so probably based on relatively recent vintages. Tasted blind.
Pale, rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful and fruity with relatively primary aromas of white fruits, some grapefruit, light sweet notes of ripe pear and a faint yet distinctive hint of caraway seeds. The wine feels ripe, youthful and quite fruity on the palate with flavors of ripe pear and pear skin, some yeasty tones, a little bit of fresh Granny Smith apple, light sweet notes of juicy white peach and a hint of grapefruit marmalade. The dosage shows a bit, accentuating the sweeter tones to some degree. A rich, ample and creamy mousse and a high acidity. The finish is ripe and sweet-toned with flavors of juicy red apple, some leesy notes of yeast, a little bit of steely minerality, light rubbery nuances of reduction, a hint of ripe citrus fruits and a touch of pear.
A harmless, fruity and slightly sweet-toned entry-level Champagne. There was quite a bit of discussion whether this was a serious, structured Prosecco or a disappointing Champagne. We finally went for Champagne, due to the combination of high acidity and somewhat leesy autolytic tones suggesting méthode traditionnelle wine - even if the primary fruit notes reminiscent of pear did remind me of Prosecco. Well, turned out to be the basic Pol Roger bottling. I guess this has been the most disappointing bottle I've tasted of this label yet. This is a rip-off at 59€.
(84 points) - NV Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An old bottle (70's?) sourced from Milan. 12% alcohol.
Evolved golden-yellow color. The nose feels very evolved and moderately oxidative with aromas of chopped nuts, some cheesy tones, a little bit of aged dusty character and faint hints of dried yellow fruits. The wine feels old and tertiary on the palate with flavors of lemon marmalade, some old dusty tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light sweetness from the dosage, a hint of browned butter and a cheesy touch of something vaguely like Brie. The wine is only medium in acidity, but there's also a tiniest tingle of CO2 still left, adding a tiny bit to the freshness. The finish is old, somewhat dull and rather short with very tertiary flavors of dried yellow fruits, some nutty notes of oxidation, a little bit of something cheesy, light bruised apple tones, a hint of something vaguely metallic and a touch of dull, dusty aged character.
Although very old, the wine did start off on the right foot, coming across as aged but still quite pleasant in the nose and on the palate with its initial attack. I was surprised how the wine still managed to retain even a tiny bit of mousse as well! However, the wine did become more dull and tired towards the finish and the faint metallic nuances in the aftertaste didn't really help. All in all, a thoroughly drinkable but maybe not that memorable old Champagne.
(83 points) - NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
This is the last cuvée of Brut Réserve to be vinified entirely in stainless steel. The base wine here consists of Chardonnay (approx. 40%), Pinot Noir (approx. 40%) and Pinot Meunier (approx. 20%) from the 2015 harvest, fermented and aged in stainless steel. The cuvée consists of the base wine (approx. 55%) and reserve wines (45%), all aged in stainless steel. Bottled in 2016, disgorged after three years of aging sur lattes in 2019. 12% alcohol.
Youthful and rather intense yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe and very slightly reductive with aromas of gunpowder smoke, some toasty and nutty notes from the reserve wines, a little bit of ripe citrus fruit, light autolytic nuances of bread or brioche and a hint of chalky minerality. The wine feels rich and quite ripe yet dry on the palate with flavors of zesty citrus fruits, some incisive steely mineral notes, a little bit of ripe red apple, light sweeter notes of juicy white fruits, an autolytic hint of chopped nuts and slivered almonds and a touch of salinity. The acidity feels high and the mousse feels silky and harmonious. The finish is crisp, long and quite mineral with a dry, youthful aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light leesy and bready nuances of autolysis, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of tangy salinity.
A very nice, youthful and promising cuvée of Charles Heidsieck. The overall feel is a bit less complex and less autolytic than the wine has previously been, and I believe this can be attributed to the grown popularity of Charles Heidsieck wines. In the recent past, when the wines didn't sell as easily as today, CH accumulated a huge amount of old reserve wines, with which they could make wines with a large proportion of reserve wines in the blend, resulting in wines with impressive depth and toasty autolytic complexity even in freshly released wines. However, the reserve wine stock hasn't been able to keep up with the increased demand, which means that if CH has wanted to stick to the traditional blend of almost 50% reserve wines, the age of the reserve wines has decreased considerably, resulting in less toasty and complex wines - at least upon release. Beginning with the 2016-based cuvée, CH has introduced a small portion of oak-aged wine to make up for the lack of age in their reserve wines - but this particular cuvée didn't have any oak. I must say that the style here is not as impressive as it used to be, but this is still a very lovely wine that shows drinks pretty well already now and shows great potential for future development. Hopefully the toast and complexity will emerge with age!
(91 points) - NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Finest Extra Quality Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
A very old bottle, most likely from the 1970's or even older. 12% alcohol. Bottle size is 0,77 liters, according to the label.
Very evolved and deep burnished golden yellow color with a subtly bronze core. The nose feels old, dusty and tired with aromas of nutty rancio, some decomposing wood tones, a little bit of roasted walnut, light earthy tones, a sweet hint of dried yellow fruits and a touch of antique furniture. The wine feels old, dry-ish and moderately oxidized on the palate with a medium body and tired flavors of nutty rancio, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of earth, light zesty notes of ripe orange, a hint of decomposing wood and a touch of salted peanuts. The acidity feels rather high and there is no mousse whatsoever; the wine is completely flat at this point. The finish is old, dull and oxidative with a long, tired aftertaste of pronounced rancio nuttiness and aldehydic salinity, some decomposing wood tones, a little bit of salted peanuts and a hint of antique furniture.
This is way past its peak. Flat, tired and oxidative. Not particularly pleasant even as an academic curiosity.
(NR/flawed) - NV Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut Extra - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older bottle from the 1970's or 1980's, labeled as "Brut Extra", not "Extra Brut". 12% alcohol. Bottled in a 0,77-liter bottle, according to the label.
Pale-to-medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels aged and quite old but also very complex and attractive with layered aromas of creamy custard character and peanut butter, some bruised apple tones, light sweeter nuances of honeyed richness, a little bit of smoke, a hint of lemon marmalade and an autolytic touch of brioche. The wine feels aged and quite oxidative yet not tired with a medium body and complex flavors of chopped nuts and bruised apple, some caramel tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light honeyed tones, a hint of ripe lemony citrus fruits and a touch of juicy white fruit. The overall feel is somewhat reminiscent of a Fino Sherry, only without that tangy, aldehydic green apple character of Sherries. The wine is high in acidity without any noticeable mousse. The finish is dry, crunchy and evolved with a long, slightly oxidative aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some notes of caramel or molasses, a little bit of roasted nuts, light saline mineral notes, a hint of tart Granny Smith apple and a touch of honeyed richness.
An aged but also very nuanced, complex and tasty Champagne that has lost its bubbles, yet has managed to otherwise stay in surprisingly enjoyable shape. I wish there were still a bit of fizz left here - that would elevate the wine to the next level! Nevertheless, this was a fine and enjoyable effort for a flat Champagne. The wine is not going to get any better with further aging, so it's high time to drink any remaining bottles!
(92 points) - NV Philipponnat Champagne Royale Réserve Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older bottle, probably from the 1980's or 1990's. 12% alcohol.
Pale golden or honeyed yellow color. The nose feels fragrant and quite distinctive with rather captivating aromas of arctic bramble and plum pits, some cloudberry jam tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light autolytic toasty and nutty nuances, a hint of acacia honey and a touch of caramel. The wine feels dry, brisk and quite tertiary on the palate with a medium body and layered flavors of lemony citrus fruits and sharp Granny Smith apple tones, some evolved nutty tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light stony mineral notes, a hint of grapefruit bitterness and a distinctive, sweet touch of arctic bramble. The bright, high acidity lends great sense of energy and structure to the wine and there is still a tiniest bit of fizz tingling on the tongue, making this still feel like a sparkling wine and not just a thin old white. The finish is long, crisp and complex with a dry, acid-driven aftertaste of tart lemony citrus fruit, some nutty notes of oxidation, a little bit of bruised Granny Smith apple, light steely mineral notes, a hint of caramel and a touch of tangy salinity.
A fantastic, wonderfully complex and beautifully evolved NV Champagne at its peak. You can taste this has never been a super impressive Champagne to begin with, nor has it evolved into something greater than it was built to be, but age has granted the wine wonderful depth of flavor and sense of complexity, making it feel so much more interesting than a standard NV Champagne in its youth. Based on the subtly oxidative tones and the bubbles that are all but disappeared, it's pretty obvious that this wine was not going to improve anywhere from here. I'm glad we drunk this wine now. A terrific effort.
(93 points) - NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An NV bottling from the mid-80's, most likely based on some early 80's vintage.
Deep, old coppery color with some particles floating in the wine. The nose feels deep, rich and very tertiary with quite oxidative aromas of bruised apple and syrupy molasses, some dusty notes of earth, a little bit of dried white fruit, light orange marmalade tones and a hint of honeyed richness. The wine feels rather old and tired on the palate with a medium body and somewhat oxidative flavors of lemony citrus fruits and wizened green apple tones, some chalky mineral bitterness, light oxidized notes of stale bread and rancid nuts, a little bit of pink grapefruit and a somewhat noticeable hint of sweetness from the rather generous dosage. The wine is high in acidity, but otherwise completely flat with no mousse whatsoever. The finish is long but also quite tired and oxidized with an aftertaste of grapefruit and sharp green apple, some mineral notes of chalk dust, light syrupy tones, a little bit of walnuts and salty rancio and a hint of stale bread.
Already past its peak. The oxidized flavors have overrun the wine and turned the taste rather unpleasant.
(NR/flawed) - NV Champagne Irroy Champagne Carte d'Or Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older NV bottle from the 1980's or 1990's. 12% alcohol.
Quite deep coppery color with a medium-deep golden-yellow rim. The nose feels rich, creamy and quite attractive with aromas of custard pastries and arrack, some creamy panna cotta tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light lemon marmalade tones, a hint of sweet smoke and a touch of caramel. The wine feels ripe, old and rather oxidative on the palate with a full body and tertiary flavors of roasted nuts and honey, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of creamy custard character, light notes of saline minerality, sweet hints of lemon marmalade and syrupy richness and a touch of fresh pineapple. The dosage must be on the sweeter end of Brut, because it shows quite a bit, making the wine feel more like a Sec than a Brut. The acidity feels moderately high, but there is no mousse whatsoever and the mouthfeel is flat. The finish is long, old and dry-ish with a tertiary aftertaste of honeyed richness and bruised apple, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of dried apricot, light creamy notes of custard pastries, sweeter hints of caramel and lemon marmalade and a touch of arrack.
An old, flat and slightly sweet-toned Champagne that is surprisingly enjoyable for what it is. Usually when these entry-level NV Champagnes get so old that they lose bubbles and start to get too oxidative, they stop being enjoyable for me, but this wine had developed enough tertiary complexity to keep things interesting even after the wine has turned "too old". I guess the dosage might've been quite high here, seeing how there was a noticeable streak of sugary sweetness running through the taste, but maybe that high dosage has also helped in developing these interesting, rich, caramel-like and at times even vaguely arrack-like tertiary notes. A positive surprise.
(90 points) - NV Ayala Champagne Brut Château d'Aÿ - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older bottle, perhaps from the 1990's. 12% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels old, dark-toned and somewhat sweet with aged aromas of dusty earth, some decomposing old wood tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light nutty notes of oxidation and a hint of molasses. The wine feels old, flat and very tertiary on the palate with a medium body and rather oxidative flavors of lemony citrus fruits and pithy grapefruit, some honeyed tones, a little bit of nutty oxidation, light bruised Granny Smith apple tones, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a touch of decomposing old wood. The wine is high in acidity but there is no mousse whatsoever anymore. The finish is long, savory and quite tertiary with flavors of lemon juice, some sharp green apple tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a touch of dried red fruits. There's a touch of dosage sweetness adding a little bit of richness to the aftertaste.
A flat and too old Champagne, but not in an unpleasant way. The wine has lost its bubbles and all the youthful fruit tones, but there is enough tertiary complexity to keep things somewhat interesting. The wine isn't in prime condition anymore, nor is it particularly identifiable for anything more accurate than "an old Champagne", but it is enjoyable enough for me to make me want to rate it rather than mark it as "flawed/defective".
(88 points) - NV Taittinger Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An NV bottling from the mid-80's, most likely based on some early 80's vintage. Opened after the first bottle of 1980's Taittinger Brut Reserve turned out to be dead. 12% alcohol. Bottled in a 0,77-liter bottle, according to the label.
Deep and very slightly haze golden-yellow color with a pale bronze core. The nose feels sweet, toasty and characterful with rich aromas of butterscotch and arrack-like tones reminiscent of very old Sweet Madeira, light bruised apple tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, a creamy hint of custard, a touch of roasted nuts and a whiff of smoke. The wine feels crisp, dry and quite racy on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of lemony citrus fruits and Granny Smith apple, some honeyed tones, a little bit of creamy custard character, light bready - even subtly malty - notes of oxidation, a hint of arrack and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The dosage adds a fine touch of sweetness to the taste, yet still keeping the wine firmly in the dry end of the spectrum. There's just the tiniest bit of tingle on the tongue, as a reminder that at some point this was a sparkling wine, not just a mild frizzante. The bracing acidity lends great energy and incisive sense of structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, lively and quite tertiary with a long aftertaste of Granny Smith apple, some lemony citrus fruit tones, a little bit of grainy or malty oxidative character, light creamy custard tones, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of tangy rancio.
Well, this bottle was also past its peak. However, unlike the previous bottle we opened, this was fully enjoyable and quite complex. Maybe a bit tired at times, but fortunately not throughout. Although the wine would be more enjoyable with some youthful fruit nuances and a bit more carbonation, there was still a lot to enjoy here. A nice senescent Champagne.
(89 points) - NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older NV bottle from the early 1970's. 12% alcohol. Bottled in a 0,77-liter bottle.
Medium-deep golden yellow or pale bronze color. The nose feels old and oxidative yet quite attractive with complex aromas of bruised apples, some orange marmalade, light syrupy tones, a little bit of dried stone fruits, a hint of pineapple and a touch of browned butter. The wine feels rich, balanced and slightly off-dry on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of apple jam and lemon marmalade, some zesty notes of ripe orange, light dried pineapple tones, a little bit of toffee or butterscotch, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of caramel. The wine is moderately high in acidity and there's a tiniest suggestion of subtly tingly mousse on the tongue. The dosage feels abnormally high for a wine labeled "Brut" - to me, this feels more like a Sec (or even a Demi-Sec from the drier end!). The finish is long, quite tertiary and somewhat off-dry with a complex aftertaste of orange marmalade, some pineapple tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light citrus notes of Meyer lemon and somewhat bitter grapefruit, a hint of incisive steely character and a touch of caramel.
A rather old and tertiary but still very drinkable Champagne that feels somewhat sweeter than what one would expect from a "Brut". Based on the somewhat marmaladey richness and quite pronounced tertiary notes that veer towards caramel rather than nuttiness, I'd say the dosage here is in the ballpark of 15 to 20 g/l rather than around 10 g/l. Not that it's a bad thing per se - I can imagine that residual sugar has helped the wine to survive in somewhat sound condition for this long. Although the wine has probably seen better days and is starting to feel a bit tired now, it is still in perfectly enjoyable condition, all things considered.
(90 points) - NV Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older NV bottle, probably from the 1980's. 12% alcohol.
Rather deep bronze color. The nose feels old, tired and quite dull with rather oxidized aromas of mushroomy funk, some understated notes of earth, a little bit of dusty earth, light sweet notes of apple jam, a hint of dried peach and a touch of antique furniture. The wine feels ripe, tired and somewhat sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and off-dry, rather oxidized flavors of rancid nuts, some sweet notes of apple jam, light tart notes of lemony citrus fruits, light saline mineral tones, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of sugary sweetness. The brisk acidity lends electric energy to the wine, but the lack of mousse makes the overall feel still quite flat and listless. The finish is crisp, slightly off-dry and quite acid-driven with a moderately long and quite oxidative aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some tart green apple tones, a little bit of earth and mushroomy funk, light sweet notes of dried fruits, a hint of pithy grapefruit bitterness and a touch of saline minerality.
With its rather oxidized flavors and flat mouthfeel, this wine is way past its peak. Although not completely undrinkable, there are rather few redeeming qualities here. Probably was great a decade or two ago.
(NR/flawed) - NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Tradition - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An old NV bottle estimated to be from the 1970's or the 1980's. 12% alcohol.
Evolved, rather dark honey-yellow or medium-deep bronze color. The nose feels nicely evolved, quite cool and surprisingly refreshing with aromas of toasty nuttiness, some bruised apple tones, light smoky nuances, a little bit of lemon marmalade, a hint of quince and a touch of toasted bread. The wine feels evolved, firm and slightly off-dry on the palate with a quite full body and complex flavors of bruised apples, some ripe citrus fruit tones, a little bit of quince jam, light stony mineral notes, sweet hints of dried stone fruits and Sultana raisins and a faint lifted touch of nail polish VA. The wine is high in acidity with a faint touch of tingly CO2 on the tongue. The finish is evolved, complex and slightly dusty with a rather long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and bruised green apples, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of Sultana raisin, light tart nuances of key lime, a hint of toasted bread and a touch of dull earthiness.
An old yet still surprisingly enjoyable and pleasant NV Champagne. I guess the wine could show a bit more freshness and less tertiary qualities, but the evolved complexity and good sense of structure make the wine end on a positive note. I guess this wine can feel too old for people who prefer youthful freshness and energy, but it's thoroughly enjoyable for people who like their bubbles with age.
(91 points) - NV Deutz Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older NV bottle probably from the 1980's. 12% alcohol.
Deep straw-yellow color. Evolved, rich and complex nose with layered aromas of cooked cream and lemon marmalade, some bruised red apple tones, a little bit of crunchy quince, light toasty notes of custard pastries, a characterful (and not unpleasant) hint of cooked vegetables and a touch of steely minerality. The wine is evolved, dry and complex on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of bruised golden apple and caramelized notes of Maillard reaction, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy quince, light smoky nuances, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of oat biscuits. The mousse feels quite sparse, but still rather lively and wonderfully persistent. The high acidity lends great sense of energy to the wine. The finish is long, fresh and crunchy with an evolved, complex aftertaste of bruised apple and lemony citrus fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of chalk dust, light developed caramel nuances, a hint of crunchy quince and a touch of creamy custard character.
A wonderfully evolved, complex and still energetic NV Champagne that is very much alive for its age. There's no denying this wine is on its plateau of maturity and has been there for years - maybe even more than a decade - but the wine is still immensely enjoyable. Most likely the wine won't improve anywhere from here, so it was a perfect time to pop the bottle open. Easily among the best wines we had in our large tasting of very old NV Champagnes.
(93 points) - NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An NV bottle with no indication on the base vintage or disgorgement date; probably from a period between the mid-70's to early 80's. The crest in the bottle next says "Bollinger - Extra". 12% alcohol.
Medium-deep golden yellow color. The nose feels old, dull and somewhat odd with a bit unpleasant aromas of bloomy rind cheese and sweaty socks, some sweet white fruit tones, a little bit of rancid nuts and a hint of something vaguely sulfurous. The wine is dry, old and dull with a medium body and rather unpleasant flavors of bloomy rind cheese, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of tart green apple, light crunchy notes of green currants, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of white vinegar. The wine is very high in acidity, but the mouthfeel is flat due to the complete lack of mousse. The finish is long and dry but also very tired with a tertiary aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some funky notes of bloomy rind cheese, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of mushroomy funk, light pithy notes of grapefruit bitterness and a tangy hint of rancio.
This was just dull, dead and unpleasant. Some people thought the wine was corked due to its rather disagreeable aromas and flavors, but others (me included) thought the wine wasn't faulty, only way too old for its own good. This is how wines turn out when they are kept for too long.
(NR/flawed) - NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An NV bottle with no indication on the base vintage or disgorgement date; probably from a period between the mid-70's to early 80's. The crest in the bottle next says "Bollinger - Extra". 12% alcohol.
Deep burnished golden yellow color with a pale bronze core. The nose feels old and dark-toned with aromas of dried fruits, some aged dusty tones, a little bit of wizened golden apple, light cloudberry tones, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of oxidative nuttiness. The wine feels old and moderately tired on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sweeter dried-fruit tones, a little bit of mushroomy funk, light crunchy notes of green apple slices, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of nutty rancio. The wine is high in acidity and there is no mousse to speak of. The finish is old, dry and somewhat oxidative with a medium-long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of mushroomy funk, light nutty notes of rancio, a hint of earth and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
This old Bolly is past its peak. It is still quite drinkable, but it has just turned into an old, anonymous flat wine. Nothing particularly interesting here anymore - a shame, since up to this wine all the older bottles of Bollinger Special Cuvée I've tasted have been in terrific condition! Leaving the wine unrated due to its tired overall feel. - NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older bottle from the early-to-mid 1980's. 12% alcohol.
Slightly hazy and a bit dull medium-deep golden-yellow color. The nose feels evolved and a bit restrained but also quite attractive with complex aromas of roasted nuts, some bruised apple, light sweeter notes of peachy stone fruit, a little bit of cloudberry jam and a hint of chalky minerality. The wine feels evolved, complex and toasty on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of bruised apple, some cantaloupe, light juicy notes of ripe orange, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of crunchy green currant. The high acidity gives the wine great sense of structure and energy and the little bit of fizz from the gentle mousse helps a lot in making the wine feel surprisingly fresh and lively for its age. The finish is quite tertiary yet wonderfully crisp and crunchy with a long, complex aftertaste of tart lemony citrus fruit and green currant, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of toasty nuttiness, light notes of bruised apple, a sweeter hint of cantaloupe and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A very lovely, tasty and enjoyable bottle. Unlike with so many other Grande Marque NVs, I've never been burned by these older Moët & Chandon Impérials. However, I must say that this bottle wasn't quite at the level of the previous bottles of old Brut Impérial I've tasted; they've been exceptionally youthful, whereas this particular bottle felt a bit more evolved with a bit less energy and less pronounced mousse. Yet still, this was an excellent and thoroughly delicious example of aged NV Champagne and a testament to the aging capability of these older Brut Impérials, which just seem to refuse to fall apart.
(94 points) - NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
A somewhat older NV bottle. The label is of deeper, reddish-orange hue than the lighter canary-yellow label of today. The label also bears the text "BRUT" in all four corners of the label.
Relatively light lemon-yellow color. Dull, musty nose of mildew, water damage and damp cardboard.
Badly corked.
(NR/flawed) - NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An NV bottling from the early 1970's. There is a CLICQUOT WERLE crest in the place of the VCP crest present in the modern labels plus a small stamp in the neck, saying "Bicentenaire 1772-1972". 12% alcohol.
Medium-deep straw-yellow color. The nose feels quite old and somewhat oxidized with complex aromas of chopped nuts, some wizened golden apple tones, a little bit of ripe citrus fruit, light honeyed notes, a dried-fruit hint of Sultana raisins, a touch of ripe cloudberries and a whiff of browned butter. The wine feels ripe, firm and quite tertiary on the palate with a medium body and evolved flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and sweeter notes of orange marmalade, some crunchy notes of green apple slices, light dried-fruit notes of Sultana raisins, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, a hint of smoke and a touch of tangy salinity. The wine is high in acidity and there is still a tiny bit of prickly mousse. The finish is long, crisp and racy with an evolved aftertaste of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some green apple tones, a little bit of mushroomy funk, light metallic nuances, a peachy hint of dried stone fruits and a tiny bit of honeyed richness from the dosage.
A balanced and enjoyable bottle of old Veuve Clicquot. There's no denying that the wine is very evolved, but it still retains a good deal of fruit, freshness and complexity despite its age - basically the only things that slightly distract from the pleasure are the slightly mushroomy and faint metallic nuances in the aftertaste, which take a small toll on the final score. However, the overall impression remains firmly on the positive side and this wine was a solid example of nicely aged NV Champagne.
(90 points) - NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial - France, Champagne (9.8.2023)
An older bottle from the early-to-mid 1980's. 12% alcohol.
Old, somewhat dull and quite pale nutty-brown color. The nose feels old, expressive and surprisingly characterful with aromas of caramel and butterscotch, some dried-fruit notes of figs and wizened stone fruits, light peachy tones, a little bit of freshly baked crêpe and a hint of zesty citrus fruit. The wine feels quite aged but also pretty complex on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and tertiary flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some sweet notes of apple jam, light oxidative notes of chopped nuts, a little bit of fried mushrooms, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of custard pastry. The dosage does show a little bit, but not enough to make the wine feel off-dry. The acidity feels high and there's still a tiniest bit of tingly mousse. The finish is long, aged and quite complex with a dry-ish aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and sharp Granny Smith apple tones, some oxidative nutty notes, a little bit of dried yellow fruit, light crunchy notes of green currants, a hint of unripe pineapple and a touch of juicy peach.
This bottle was opened next to another old Brut Impérial that had an identical, old label, but wasn't from the same lot - they had different importer stickers (although both were originally imported from France to Italy!). While both these old Brut Impérials were remarkably enjoyable for old, generic NVs (the same can't be said of many other old NVs we tasted), this bottle wasn't as exquisite as the other bottle. While this bottle was more distinctive with its characterful aromas and flavors, the other bottle felt more youthful and vibrant, whereas this one seemed a bit older and slightly more tired. Nevertheless, both these wines were among the best wines we had in our huge tasting of old NV Champagnes.
(92 points) - NV Laurent-Perrier Coteaux Champenois Blanc de Blancs de Chardonnay - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (9.8.2023)
The label is so damaged that you can't see if there is any mentions of vintage or ABV% in the label. However, based on previous experiences with the same wine, the bottle must be from 1974-1982.
Deep golden-yellow color. The nose feels evolved and slightly oxidized with complex and for the most part quite attractive aromas of lemony citrus fruits and smoky tones, some crunchy red apple and bruised green apple notes, a little bit of browned butter, light caramel nuances, a hint of acacia honey and a touch of sourdough bread. The wine feels dry, racy and quite lean on the palate with a light-to-medium body and tertiary yet brisk flavors of lemony citrus fruits and sharp green apple tones, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of caramel, light dried-fruit nuances of Sultana raisin, a grainy hint of something bready and a developed touch of creaminess. The bracing acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the otherwise rather senescent wine. The finish is long, aged and quite tangy with flavors of steely minerality and lemony citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of bruised red apple, light smoky tones, a toasty hint of nuttiness and a touch of salinity.
A tasty, brisk and quite lean old Coteaux Champenois more or less at the end of its life. The wine feels somewhat older and a bit more tired than the bottle we had a few years ago, but not that much. Surprisingly good stuff for a wine that was probably meant to age for a few years, maybe ten years tops. No need to age these any longer - best to drink them up while they're still enjoyable!
(91 points) - NV Laurent-Perrier Ratafia de Champagne - France, Champagne, Ratafia de Champagne (9.8.2023)
A very old bottle of Ratafia (unfermented press juice fortified with local spirits, ie. Marc de Champagne or Fine de Champagne). 18% alcohol.
Deep geolden-yellow or pale coppery color. The nose feels sweet, somewhat volatile and quite aged with complex aromas of nail cloudberry jam, some lifted notes of nail polish and paint thinner, a little bit of apple sauce, light nutty notes of oxidation, sweet hints of apricot liqueuer and wild honey, a grappa-like touch of fusel alcohols and a whiff of cherry pits. The wine feels sweet, evolved and somewhat oily yet not sticky on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of peach marmalade and cloudberry jam, some apple sauce tones, a little bit of plum pits and cherry pits, light nutty notes of oxidation, a slightly bitter hint of wild honey and a touch of white balsamico. The medium-to-moderately high acidity lends some sense of balance to the wine, but the overall feel is quite rich and soft. The finish is long, rich and complex with a sweet and rather intense aftertaste of peach jam and apple sauce, some honeyed richness, light nutty notes of oxidation, light zesty notes of ripe orange, a hint of white balsamico and a touch of stony minerality.
A fascinating and quite delicious sweet drink that is in a remarkably good shape, despite its age. Some people thought the wine was too heavy, volatile and even somewhat unpleasant, but I guess those were people who love just Champagne and would consider any sweet fortified wine unpleasant. I myself am a big fan of sweet fortified wines and I found this a thoroughly wonderful effort, showing the aging capability of good Ratafias. For me, many young Ratafias can be rather unbalanced - the spirits used for fortification can easily dominate a young Ratafia, and it takes quite some time for the fruity must flavors to meld with the spirituous notes. I don't know how old this bottle was - probably 30 or 40 years - but to me, this was still firmly at its plateau of maturity. Great stuff.
(93 points) - 2017 Domaine de l'Ecu Malbec Germinus - France, Vin de France (9.8.2023)
Vin de France Malbec that is made with Château Les Croisille's biodynamically farmed grapes sourced from Cahors. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated with the skins for 10 days, aged for 9 months in 150- and 600-liter amphorae, vinified and bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any SO2 additions. 11,5% alcohol, total SO2 <15 mg/l (of which <10 mg/l free). Bottle no. 525 of total 1280 bottles.
Youthful, somewhat hazy and slightly translucent purplish-red color. The nose feels wild, lifted and quite fruity with open, fruit-forward aromas of raspberries and fresh boysenberries, some cherry tones, a little bit of aromatic, Campari-like bretty spice, light floral tones, a hint of acetic VA and a touch of earth. The wine feels crunchy, somewhat lifted and sauvage on the palate with a medium body and quite youthful, fruit-forward flavors of raspberry marmalade, some boysenberry tones, a little bit of tart cranberry, light blueberry tones, bretty hints of smoke and barnyard funk and a touch of glue. The wine is not only moderately high in acidity, but there's also a tiniest bit of tingly CO2 on the tongue. The light, gently grippy tannins bring in a little bit of firmness to the palate. The finish is wild, dry and crunchy with a moderately long aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some cranberry tones, a little bit of zesty brett character, light brambly raspberry notes, a lifted hint of nail polish BA and a touch of leathery funk.
I know this wine turns horribly mousy - and fast. The three previous times I've had this wine have ended up the wine turning mousy in a time ranging from a wee bit over an hour to just 15 to 20 minutes. That's why this wine was drunk pretty much immediately after it was opened, so it never got a chance to turn mousy. And you know what? The wine was surprisingly enjoyable for such a natty effort! Unlike the two previous times, in which the wine started to feel like "yeah, this is going to get mousy soon", this wine was more like the one I had in 2019, when the wine was pretty nice for a little while after it was opened. And this time we didn't give it a chance to get worse. I suggest you don't, either. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 15€.
(87 points) - 2017 Jean-Pierre Robinot (Les Vignes de l'Ange Vin) Lumière des Sens - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières (9.8.2023)
100% Pineau d'Aunis from a 40-yo vineyard in Jasnières. Fermented in whole bunches for three weeks. Aged for 12-15 months in old oak barrels. Bottled as Vin de France, so there is no mention of the vintage in the label, only lot number "LR03 17". 10% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, slightly hazy and quite dark plummy red color that permits some light through. The nose feels wild, funky and crunchy with aromas of redcurrants and bretty leather, some pomegranate, light cherry and strawberry tones, a little bit of blueberry, a lifted hint of nail polish VA and a touch of sous-bois. The wine feels crunchy, quite acid-driven and moderately volatile on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of fresh black raspberries and ripe red gooseberries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of pomegranate, light balsamico tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of blueberry. The wine is surprisingly stern and high-strung with its almost bracing acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is savory, quite funky and moderately grippy with a long, acid-driven aftertaste of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, some funky notes of bretty leather, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light pomegranate tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of acetic VA.
A fund, fresh and characterful Loire red that is a tad too natty for my taste. I do enjoy the wine's rather stern, structure-driven overall character, but the aromatics are a bit too heavily dominated by acetic notes of VA. I don't mind the wine's moderately bretty, but I can imagine this much funky can be a problem for some people, too. All in all, a fun and enjoyable wine, but an extra dose of SO2 during the vinification process could've made it more interesting and enjoyable.
(88 points) - 2020 BK Wines Pur Jus - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills (9.8.2023)
A blend of Pinot Noir (90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%) from an old Cab Franc vineyard in which Pinot Noir was grafted to Cab Franc vines, but a small amount of vines was left to produce Cab Franc as well. Vinified in whole bunches with semi-carbonic maceration over three weeks. Aged in an old French oak barrel. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a tiny dose of SO2. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent, slightly hazy and quite youthful dark cherry-red color. There are some tiny particles floating in the wine, so letting the wine first stay upright and the decanting it is highly recommended. The nose feels sweet-toned and quite sauvage with aromas of strawberries, some fermenting red plum tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, light blackberry tones, a primary hint of juicy, grapey fruit and a lifted touch of nail polish character. The wine feels wild and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and quite acid-driven flavors of tart lingonberries and brambly raspberries, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of wild strawberry, light acetic notes of VA, a hint of bretty funk and a touch of fresh blackberry. The wine is very high in acidity, whereas the tannins are very light and supple. The finish is dry, crunchy and gently grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light acetic notes of VA, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of farmhouse funk.
A surprisingly believable effort for an Australian naturalista: for the longest time everybody was guessing different French regions and producers, and when finally told this wasn't a French wine, people still stayed in the Old World. Nobody ever thought of Australia. However, there's no denying that the style here is pretty natty and, thus, quite anonymous. The wine might be a blend of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, but due to the natty overall feel, there's no real Pinosity here that would make me think of Pinot Noir. The wine could be made with any red varieties that produced such a light, fresh and crunchy wine. I did enjoy the fresh cool-climate character, but I wish the wine was less wild and acetic, showing more varietal character and real sense of place. Feels a tad pricey for the quality at 28,90€.
(86 points) - 2019 Domaine du Chapitre Regent Saint-Rémi - Belgium, Wallonie, Vin de pays des Jardins de Wallonie (9.8.2023)
100% Regent from a vineyard planted in 2013. Aged for 12 months in French oak barriques. 12% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous ruby-red color. The nose feels sweet, open and somewhat dark-toned with quite intense aromas of blueberries, some vanilla oak, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light strawberry tones, a hint of cloves, a touch of sweet oak spice and a whiff of crème de cassis. The wine feels firm, sinewy and somewhat polished on the palate with a medium body and intense, rather glossy and quite oak-driven flavors of vanilla and sweet oak spice, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of blueberry juice, light notes of fresh dark plums, a hint of clove and a touch of brambly black raspberry. The wine could be a rich, oaky crowdpleaser wine if it weren't for its surprisingly lean structure - all thanks to its bright, zippy and quite incisive acidity and light yet surprisingly grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and slightly grippy with a rather long, acid-driven aftertaste of tart lingonberries and fresh dark plums, some vanilla tones, a little bit of cloves and other sweet oak spices, light bilberry tones, hints of ripe cranberries and wild strawberries and a touch of crème de cassis.
This could've been a rather nice wine, if it weren't for the somewhat overdone oak impact, which renders the wine rather sweet and glossy. The overall feel here is wonderfully firm, crunchy and enjoyably acid-driven with surprisingly vibrant fruit intensity. The lush oaky notes just transform the wine into something sweet, boring and anonymous - more like a dry mulled wine. I guess letting the wine age for some years more might help integrating some of that oak a little bit better, but I doubt any amount of aging is enough to integrate all that oak. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 17,50€.
(85 points) - 2008 Marco Zabaldano Barolo Cascina Chiese Monvigliero - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9.8.2023)
14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, moderately translucent and somewhat evolved cherry-red color with a brick-red hue and a wide, clear rim. The nose feels ripe, sweetly-fruited and somewhat dark-toned with vibrant aromas of black cherries and blackcurrant marmalade, some licorice tones, a little bit of tobacco, light smoky nuances, a hint of wild strawberry, a touch of alcohol and a whiff of anise. The wine feels ripe, quite dense and somewhat muscular on the palate with a quite full body and intense flavors of evolved cherry-driven red fruit and wild strawberry tones, some licorice notes, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light tart nuances of lingonberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of jammy red plum. The wine is high in acidity with moderately assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is rich, somewhat sweet-toned and quite grippy with a long aftertaste of strawberries and ripe blackcurrants, some licorice tones, a little bit of tart cranberry and lingonberry, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of earth.
After tasting this wine two times before, I had grown to expect the wine was always somewhat off. Not particularly corked, because the nose usually got better - not worse - with air. However, somewhat musty and not particularly attractive. That's why I was happy to taste this wine fully blind, because this was nothing alike those two other bottles I had tasted a few years ago. I didn't really identify the wine as a Barolo, because the wine had a more Cab-like character to it, which made me think of Bordeaux first, then some Tuscan red with a little bit of Cab in the blend. Well, it turned out to be this weird no-name Barolo from the Monvigliero cru - only much better than ever before! This wasn't really anything mind-blowing (especially as the wine didn't really feel like that much like Nebbiolo), but a nice, sophisticated and balanced wine all the same. I just wonder what on earth might've been the problem with the previous two bottles, if this wine was supposed to taste like this? Anyways, a good purchase at just 21€.
(90 points) - 1988 Château Gressier Grand Poujeaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (9.8.2023)
12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark, somewhat evolved and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a light maroon hue. The nose feels open and expressive with intense, somewhat evolved aromas of sweet blackcurrants and roasted bell peppers, some herbaceous leafy tones, a little bit of old leather, light plummy nuances, a hint of tobacco, a touch of sous-bois and a whiff of balsamic VA. The wine feels moderately evolved, firm and complex on the palate with a medium body and slightly tertiary flavors of wizened blackcurrants and gravelly mineral tones, some salty liquorice notes, a little bit of sous-bois, light herbaceous notes of autumnal leaves, a hint of tobacco and a sweet, slightly lifted touch of balsamic VA. The wine is pretty firm and tightly-knit with its high acidity and ample yet ripe tannins that slowly coat the mouth. The finish is long, firm and moderately grippy with a dry, evolved aftertaste of tart lingonberries and red plums, some tobacco, a little bit of salty liquorice, light sweeter nuances of wizened blackcurrants and dried dark fruits, a hint of old leather and a herbaceous touch of bell pepper.
This was immediately identified as an old Bordeaux. The first guesses were 1995 and 1990, so age-wise we were in the right ballpark from the start, although it took a bit more guessing to identify the correct vintage and appellation. All in all, this was a terrific effort which was in a perfect spot right now. The wine is quite evolved and tertiary, but still packing more than enough fruit and tannic structure to make sure the overall feel is still perfectly alive and enjoyable. There's also a tiny streak of balsamic VA in the background, only adding to the depth and complexity. I really don't see this wine benefiting from any additional aging - it might evolve further, but qualitatively this is as good as it can get. A fine, old, classically styled claret is what this is. Time to drink up.
(94 points) - 2016 Ferraton Père & Fils Crozes-Hermitage Blanc La Matinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (9.8.2023)
100% Marsanne from vineyards in Mercurol. Aged for 10 months on the lees. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, limpid and quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels fragrant, youthful and slightly restrained with aromas of mealy yellow apples and chopped almonds, some crunchy notes of quince, light cantaloupe tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, a sweet hint of ripe nectarine and a touch of something waxy. The wine feels ripe, broad and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of yellow apples and cantaloupe, some vague spicy tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, light floral nuances, a hint of waxy character and a touch of oatmeal. Although the wine isn't big in size, the overall mouthfeel is somewhat substantial and somewhat viscous. The moderately high acidity lends some balance to the wine. The finish is rich, ripe and sweet-toned with a long, juicy aftertaste of cantaloupe, some honeyed tones, a little bit of apple jam, light nutty notes of chopped almonds, a hint of vague spicy character and a touch of waxy richness.
A nice and varietally correct Marsanne with pretty good sense of balance. The overall feel is still a bit young and there's a bit of that baby fat that might drop off if the wine is given enough age. I'd say let the wine age at least a few years more, but even another 7-ish might not hurt! Enjoyable stuff.
(91 points) - 2017 Marani Milorauli Syrah - Georgia, Kakheti (9.8.2023)
This might be the first Georgian Syrah I've tasted. Made with fruit sourced from the village of Sanavardo in the Napareuli appellation. Fermented, macerated and then aged in a kvevri for one year. Bottled on 16th of September, 2018. 13% alcohol. Bottle #309.
Deep, dark and only very slightly translucent garnet color with a light purplish hue. The nose feels fragrant, open and savory yet slightly sweetly-spiced with aromas of brambly blackberries and fresh black cherries, some allspice, a little bit of roasted meat, light salty liquorice tones, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of jammy boysenberries. The wine feels dry, clean and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of fresh blackberries and ferrous notes of blood, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light evolved nuances of meaty umami and a hint of licorice root. The overall structure is quite firm and tightly-knit, thanks to the quite high acidity and slightly rustic, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is dry, clean and somewhat tannic with a long aftertaste of brambly raspberries and some sweeter notes of wizened blackberries, a little bit of tobacco, light spicy notes of allspice and crushed peppercorns, a developed hint of roasted meat and a sanguine touch of salt and iron.
A very nice, firm and classically styled Syrah made in a bit stern and unpolished yet very clean style. Before this wine I had been a bit iffy with the Georgian wines made with international grape varieties, because these wines almost invariably have been made into rather "internationally styled" (ie. spoofed) wines. However, this wine was made like it was any other Georgian kvevri wine - only made with a non-Georgian grape variety. And, maybe not surprisingly, Syrah seems to fare surprisingly well with that kvevri treatment! There's some Northern Rhône-ish-ness to this wine, but I guess it's the Georgian winemaking that still makes the wine feel somewhat different. This is not funky, or weird, or atypical for the variety - there's just that je-ne-sais-quoi that makes the wine feel more like a Georgian wine with Rhône-ish accents than a true Northern Rhône Syrah. And that's not a bad thing. I enjoyed this wine quite a bit. I guess it might not be made for the long haul, since I feel it is starting to show a little bit of age now, at the age of 6 years, but I feel there's still some upside to this wine. Maybe it isn't built to live by the rule of 15, but maybe this will be peaking around 10 years of age?
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker