TNs from Nick’s Birthday Dinner in Atlanta: Cristal, Lafon, Rousseau, Gibourg, Leflaive et al

Champagne Starter:

2008 Cristal Brut

1.5 hours of air. Still a bit tight and continued to open over the course of 2-3 hours open. Lemon curd and brioche on the nose, more stone fruits and crisp acidity on the palate. Very long finish. Lovely wine!

White blind 1:

Benoit Ente Puligny Montrachet 1er Clos de la Truffiere

Fascinating nose with many people calling it Sauvignon Blanc: this was grassy abd floral with some white lilies and some lemon zest. The palate was light bodied and quite young with beautiful fruit and acidity balance and nice texture: The finish was long. I’m not sure anyone was all that close with this one, very pretty wine, though. I’m very impressed with the Benoit Ente wines after this wine and the Richard from last month.

White Flight 1:

2022 Michel Niellon Chevalier Montrachet

Absolutely stunning nose with white peach, white flowers, and a hint of papaya. The palate demonstrated some dry extract and surprising power, holding its own with the two Leflaive to follow. Beautiful finish that wasn’t quite as long as the two subsequent wines but extremely impressive performance overall. @dcornutt was very gracious to bring this.

2020 Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet

Initially quite tight as this had only been open about an hour or two before the dinner. Eventually this emerged with beautiful Meyer lemon curd on the nose with some reduction which blew off over a couple hours in the glass. The palate had the quintessential Leflaive dry extract and immense power without weight, and beautiful elegant texture and mouthfeel. The finish was extremely long and pleasurable. In general this is my favorite white wine and I’m glad @Steve_McL brought it.

2020 Leflaive Batard Montrachet

This was double decanted and given 3-4 hours of air by @Andrew_K so was much more ready to go. It was much more rounded than the laser focused Chevalier, but has beautiful white peach on the nose and very pretty fruit and acidity on the palate. Finish was long and beautiful.

White Flight 2 (blind)

1992 Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

Oxidized

1994 Lafon Meursault 1er Charmes

Incredibly fresh and light colored; I got the sense this was older. We knew it was Lafon, but not vineyard or vintage. I immediately identified that the wine had at least 1er depth, but wasn’t a Montrachet. It was rounder so I guessed Charmes which turned out to be right. I didn’t have a good sense of the vintage and guessed 90 or 93; @dcornutt correctly identified it as 1994. This bad lovely stone fruits on the nose and a beautiful midpalate softness and was very pleasant to drink.

White Blinds 2-3:

2014 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Pucelles

After an inadvertent exposure of the capsule we knew it was Leflaive, although @Nick_Christie didn’t see it and called it as Leflaive blind. I was pretty in between the pucelles and clavollion but I was pretty sure it was a 2014 given the immediate accessibility and was correct. This was popped and poured and just raring to go. Some beautiful floral notes and citrus on the nose with clearly less power than the grand crus, but beautiful elegant palate and mouthfeel and crisp finish. I could drink this all day.

2002 Jean Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Caillerets

Oxidized.

White Flight 3:

2005 Raveneau Blanchots

Corked

2005 Raveneau Valmur

Stunning nose of lemon/lime and hay. Surprising power and length, belying the light body. This was drinking wonderfully and had a very long finish.

Red Blind 1;

2019 Domaine de Croix Corton Le Vigne au Saint

My blind. I got immediate guesses of Vosne Romanee given the whole cluster spice notes, subsequently every single village in Burgundy was called before by the process of elimination someone finally guessed Corton. I can understand this because this was the least Corton wine I’ve ever seen from Corton. Producers tossed out included Guyon, William Kelley, Guilbert Gillet. After some time @dcornutt finally got the wine. To say this wine was showing tremendously would be an understatement. It had absolutely amazing bonkers aromatics of Chinese 5 spice, violets, and ripe red cherry fruit. The palate was super fresh with immense power and depth, more pretty fruits, and crisp acidity. The wine was quite young but drinking very well and the finish was super long. Very glad to have a lot of this wine.

Red Flight 1:

2007 Mugneret Gibourg Nuits Saint Georges 1er Chaignots

This flight of 07s all had wild aromatics, with the Chaignots having the most floral of them, including cherry fruit and violet aromas. The palate had more beautiful fruit and a bit more rough-hewn texture than the Ruchottes. The finish wasn’t quite as long. That being said the Chaignots was likely drinking the best of this trio although the two Ruchottes did gain in strength over the course of the night.

2007 Mugneret Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin

This was also beautiful aromatically with red and dark currant fruit and some forest floor. The palate was initially a touch tight and there was a bit less structure and power than the Rousseau. There was beautiful texture but I didn’t get the Gevrey iron or lifted high-toned fruit that we got in the beautiful 2009 in January. A good showing but I’ve never really been blown away by 07 MG like I have by Rousseau. I had this wine about two years ago and it was also smashed by 2007 Rousseau.

2007 Rousseau Clos de Ruchottes

This definitely needed the most time of the three wines; it was opened probably 4 hours before pouring but was the tightest with noticeable structure; it opened up over the course of about half an hour or so in the glass and was positively singing by the end of the night. Darker currants on the nose with some rich loam, with a beautiful palate with a core of acidity and iron backbone, much more noticeable than on the MG. The wine had much more power and depth, and likely would be better in a few years. The finish was the longest of this flight by far. While not as good as the monumental 2007 Clos Saint Jacques this was quite a fantastic wine:

Red Flight 2:

1999 Truchot-Martin Morey Saint Denis 1er Clos Sorbe

Unfortunately lightly corked.

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Very nice lineup as always by the Atlanta group, I liked the 07’ theme the MG wines are tremendous unfortunately it seems you didn’t get the experience we had with the 09’s, looked like a great time and HBD Nick!

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What a celebration. Happy Birthday Nick!

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It’s interesting because I’ve probably had the 07 MGs a half dozen times and never been blown away; the Chaignots was definitely the best showing from that wine I’ve seen. A few years ago @Mike_C1 brought the same wine to a dinner where I brought a 2007 Chevillon and most people thought the Chevillon was better. I’m generally not a huge fan of the NSG wines from MG but that was very good last night.

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Thanks for these wonderful notes and pics Michael. It was so good to be with you and Nick as well as all my ATL friends. The meal was terrific at Avize. I had some favorites of the night. I would like to wait a little to get my thoughts together. So kind of you to bring that David Croix wine blind. The nose was insanely beautiful. He is so talented. Safe travels to you and Nick.

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I’m so sorry to have missed it, I was really looking forward to seeing everyone but I’m glad y’all had a great night!

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Get well quickly. You were missed. That GI bug is a bad one.

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Have not tried any of the Domaine de Croix wines yet but based on the TN’s sounds like I should seek some out.

Sorry to hear you weren’t feeling well, I was telling the guys that you were the only one who had a chance at getting the Croix blind!

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I think you’d really like them.

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Many happy returns @Nick_Christie!

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Happy birthday, @Nick_Christie
Folks don’t bring plonk like this to my birthdays.:zany_face: Well done, ATL.

The white burgs must’ve been pretty good if the Raveneau 2005s weren’t even worth mentioning. :wink:

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Yeah I need to write about them, one was corked.

I really enjoyed all the wines and can’t really add much here but there were several wines that I really loved.
The 2008 Cristal is getting smoother and starting to integrate some. It was a delicious way to start.
The young whites were all sound. The two Leflaives were a little too cool out of the gate but with some air these wines really showed their stuff. Long and fresh. I love Leflaive since they changed to Diam. My favorite was actually the Chevalier. More length and that special minerality. The Niellon was so good. I have had this several times. It has always been beautiful after a decant.
The blind white was a super beautuil 2014 Leflaive from @Steve_McL A Pucelles that was so crystalline and long. Thanks to Steve for that one.
The Lafons were fun. Blind the first was a 92 to me. Loaded with botrytis. I didn’t think it was oxidized as much as loaded with botrytis. Joel’s Charmes was so beautiful. I knew it was older. It was from a higher acid vintage so that narrowed it down. A totally gorgeous 1994 Lafon Charmes.
The Flight of Grand Cru Raveneaus was one short due to a bad bottle of Blanchots. The 2005 Valmur however was an absolute stunner. Pure. Stony and so long. I loved it.
The reds were all excellent. A real bummer about the Truchot.
With that being said the Mugneret Gibourg wines stood out to me due to their crystalline fruit quality. I loved the 2007 Ruchottes more than others. Chaignots is from the Vosne side of NSG and much more a creature of their winemaking finesse than the site. I loved them all. The blind red which was a 2019 Domaine des Croix Corton La Vigne au Saint was on fire. The nose was pyrotechnic. Such a kind bring by @MChang
So happy to celebrate Nick’s birthday and get a chance to share some wine.

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What a lineup! Happy Bday @Nick_Christie!

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Always fun to see Chevalier and Batard Montrachets. Pretty obvious who was the favorite child in that family :slight_smile:

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It was really wonderful to have such a happy dinner all together :heart:. We were thinking of Fred Schwartz, who we miss very much. And also of Michael Lustig who has been taking these last two weeks to mourn the passing of his beloved wife.

Overview

Avize worked really well with me to devise a fantastic menu for these flights. Steve might have some fun pictures. We were always going to lean White Burgundy heavy when visiting Atlanta, i.e. one of the White Burgundy capitals of the U.S. :face_with_hand_over_mouth:. We ended up with a true Don Cornutt/Brad England special, though, with a 75/25 split. We accepted the losing of our spotlight Red flight with aplomb :ok_hand:

Good humor & graciousness is a key aspect of this group.

While I wish our ‘flights’ all survived in intact, I really liked conceptualizing the White Burgundy journey of this evening. I wanted to have different styles of White Burgundy examination & move between styles and vintages. We had some tremendous examples.

Beginning with an 08 Cristal is a lovely start. A very elegant wine at the moment, although somewhat subtle & finish-focused at the moment. This bottle was perhaps a touch quieter than a December bottle also down here in Atlanta, which had more electricity in its finish.

Very wonderful beginning. A classy wine with restraint is a good backdrop for catching up.

First Flight: Rich GCs in their Youth

We opened with a lovely dish of Frog Legs Lemon Pepper, Wet. With a beautiful rich, unctuous lemon pepper sauce which was utterly magical with these wines. Particularly the 20 Leflaive Batard-Montrachet. The Leflaive Batard, from any vintage, tends to be a bit broader & less minerally than its two nearby siblings. But that richness can be an asset with a food pairing & I adored it with the wings, sauce, & frites. Really magical in the mouth.

The two Chevalier-Montrachet had a little more class, of course. The Niellon with an outstanding nose & the Leflaive picked up steam as it got more air. The Niellon had a little fresh and hints of mint that really accentuated its sophisticated aromatics. And benefited from a double-decant 4 hours before dinner.

The Leflaive Chevalier has the most minerals to unlock in this flight, but it had the shortest double-decant and spent the whole evening unwinding. The 2017 we had in October probably has a little more electricity in its minerality at the moment, but the 2020 will get there with time.

This flight & pairing was designed to really wake up the palates and be a crowd pleaser in its richness. The crowd was pleased.

Second Flight: Blind 30+ yr old Lafon Meursault for the Lafon Savants

I really wanted to construct a course for Don & Andrew, specifically. And older, unusual Lafon Meursault was what I landed on. The 1992 Clos de la Barre simply didn’t have enough energy left to carry its style, but the 1994 Charmes was an absolute joy.

It was so fantastic to be enjoying its brilliance while listening to Don piece this together. And Michael & Andrew coming close as well. This is my kind of wine. I adore high-quality Meursault with age. The complexity, the minerals, and the three decades acting like a sculptor chiseling the richness away into a beautifully pure bottle of Chardonnay. To paraphrase Michael above (when he’s referencing the '14 Lefliave Pucelles): I could drink this all day :saluting_face:

We had a beautifully constructed Northern Italian inspired dish of ground Venison sausage, egg yolk, and beautiful whole mushrooms. With a bit plenty of acid in its sauce.

A really memorable course. It’s hard to know what to get the Lafon Boys who have had everything, but this put a real smile on my face.

Intermezzo

We had some time on our hands & after losing one of the Meursault, Steve jumped in with a fun blind. Very textbook, pleasurable 14 Leflaive. We weren’t quite sure if it was the Pucelles or not, although that’s usually my premier cru default unless I pick up something eclectic in my tasting.

A wine that says what it is in a moment. And is easy to drink.

Third Flight: Middle-aged Raveneau GCs

Michael Chang asked for 2005 Raveneau, so 2005 Raveneau is what we got :saluting_face:. We had an absolutely glorious Salmon course. One of the lightest poaches I have had in quite some time; beautiful color. And a savory, pork-based broth of real quality. Incredibly well executed dish. Adored it. Want to have it again.

The 2005 Valmur is a beautiful wine. I think Valmur has perhaps the most seashore complexity in its nose of all the Raveaneau GCs. Some sea-brine that develops more and more as the wine breaths. Wonderful complexity in its mid-palate and finish.

Very fun to close our White Flights with another distinctive, classic style of high-end White Burgundy. I think the wine I mesh with the most from all these beauties is the 1994 Lafon Meursault Charmes. The wine’s age & musicality just suit me.

Others will have their own favorites, though. Going through the gears of White Burgundy like this is a rare treat. A wonderful sequence.

Red Blind: Michael Stumps us with a Beautiful, Unusual Grand Cru

Very fun to see us all stumble around with this wine. It’s fun to have a younger Blind to wake up the palate a little bit as we shift from White to Red. I thought the energy and purity of this wine to be a real joy. I found a little raspberry in amidst the rip cherry and some dark soils and spices. Very beautiful aromatics.

Yes, I went with 2017 Guyon Echezeaux as my primary guess. Viscosity and Ech-like aromatics. When rebutted, my next guess was a boutique Pommard, maybe someone’s Rugiens.

We were all surprised with the reveal! Not often does a young Corton have his kind of texture, aromatics, and excitement. Michael put a lot of thought into this Blind :clap: . And as noted above, this Croix Corton Le Vigne au Saint was excellent. My very first experience with this producer.

The Red Flight: 2007s from Mugneret-Gibourg & Rousseau

Well, we had just one Red Flight in the end. But we managed :). Our closing courses were a hay-smoked Duck & a Lamb ballotine. Good pairings, but not as exciting as some of the earlier courses. And Andrew called out for more Frites. So more frites arrived.

Thinking about these wines on the drive back today: I think they probably offer the most discussion points and thoughtful analysis. A very interesting flight :thinking:. We were finishing up our evening with these, and really enjoying each other’s company, so we didn’t go full study-mode on these wines. But there’s a lot to ponder.

I agree entirely with Michael that this is probably as well as the 2007 Chaignots can show. I initially was going to serve this semi-blind (i.e. to tell the table it was an 07 MG and see who picks out the vineyard). But with fewer red options, we didn’t stand on ceremony with and just made it a whole flight.

This was the Somm’s favorite of the flight by some distance. The Chaignots had some intricate aromatics, which were a joy. As Don astutely points out, this really is a triumph of MG’s winemaking acumen. And managing to do something special (where Mugnier doesn’t in NSG, I don’t think). I believed that this wine could show its quality, even against the Ruchottes, and it really did.

The Ruchottes were very interesting & elegant. If not powerhouses. We can all be Prisoner’s to Perfection sometimes, and it’s hard not to immediately compare these to the very best MG & Rousseau from this vintage era Michael and I have had these last six months: 2009 MG Ruchottes, 2007 & 2009 Rousseau CSJ, 2010 Rousseau Clos de la Roche. Those wines had a glorious energy (and a paritcular aromatic burst) that were simply showstopping.

These 2007s were quieter. My palate aligned with Don in that I didn’t put the Rousseau very much ahead of the Mugneret-Gibourg on this evening. The Rousseau has a little more juicy sappiness to it, and more thickness and length to its finish. But there’s something about how a leaner GC can get into its gorgeous, elegant finish so directly. A ‘smaller’ wine than other versions, but very terroir-focused, if you will.

I think a lot of different opinions could be valid with these three. Beautiful, closing wines. No obvious winner, I thought. Reasonable to rank anyone of these as one’s favorite. I really loved closing with these (in lieu of desert). Tasting ‘Burgundy’ to finish the evening is very harmonious for me.

Conclusion

This is the second Truchot in this year that was sadly cork-damaged (each with its original owner), so I guess I’m going to have to keep showing up & push on for science :wink:. There will be more glorious Truchot, I hope.

Still, even without our spotlight Reds, we had fantastic dinner. I love this table. I will always push to get us all together as often as I can manage.

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Happy birthday, Nick!

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Happy Birthday to our favorite Master of the Meme.

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