ELVIN’S BIRTHDAY - (18/5/2026)
Elvin generously opened a set of Burlottos that he got from Japan which showed a consistent producer signature of well-managed tannins and a curious tomato note. Well-made and distinctive, but not sure if the Monvigliero is worth chasing..
- 2022 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
Clearly identifiable as the Barbera, high in alcohol and a much darker colour than the Nebbiolos. Interestingly could see why a friend said that this tasted like a young Bordeaux. Didn’t manage the alcohol as well as the Aves I had before. (88 pts.) - 2018 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Much more restrained than the other wines with a distinct tomato and jalapeno note. Quite elegant but put on weight with air which made me change my guess from '21 to the Monvigliero because I thought this showed some stem. In any case, showed why '18 is such an underrated and approachable vintage for Nebbiolo (but did become more tannic and alcoholic with air). (92 pts.) - 2021 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Thought this had the most expressive nose (until the actual Monvigliero came along), but rather drying tannins even though they were fine. Approachable but thought a bit warm so guessed '18 for this. (92 pts.) - 2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Incredibly wild, floral nose of strawberry jam that reminded me of Rayas with an ethereal texture. Thought this was the Monvigliero at first but the '18 actually became more Monvigliero with air while this became a little shut so got my guess wrong. Overall still the WOTN for me but not by as large a margin as I expected. Definitely the most fine and silky tannins. (93 pts.) - 2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Alcohol was immediately obvious on the nose and palate which made the tannins more prominent and drying with some liquorice notes. Found this hard going. (89 pts.) - 2005 Domaine Antoine Jobard Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Blagny 1er Cru
My extra. Interestingly most guessed to be Rhone and Italian with fine tannins, thought this was quite elegant but tannic initially but with time the structure and warmth of the vintage took over. In a better place than the bottle I tried in '21 but showed why I stopped buying '05s. (90 pts.)
Wonderful Keller dinner at Claudine with Max (of the G-Max) Keller and Marlies Grumbach, long-time merchant of Keller. The line-up was defined by remarkable tension, salinity, drive and precision throughout, topped off by the presence of the holy grail G-Max. I found the sparkling wine particularly compelling, and the Hipping wines showed very strongly, but my WOTN was the outstanding 2018 Schubertslay GG from ungrafted vines, which was the most complete wine of the night for me. Many thanks to Aaron and Richard for organising this wonderful evening.
- 2021 Weingut Keller Prestige Extra Brut - Germany, Rheinhessen
850 bottles made. 50% Kirchspiel, 50% Morstein - apparently Klaus Peter insisted that if Felix wanted to make sparklings then it must be done right! Disgorged Feb 2025, 1g/l dosage. Citrus fruit driven, superb tension and minerality with delicate bubbles. Can see the Bereche influence as Felix trained there. (94 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Weißer Burgunder & Chardonnay trocken - Germany, Rheinhessen
Blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Quite fruit forward and open-knit so probably meant for early drinking. (90 pts.) - 2023 Weingut Keller Chardonnay trocken “Talfels” - Germany, Rheinhessen
A very serious (but not unapproachable) Chardonnay planted at high density. Nice salinity and minerality; wouldn’t call this Burgundian but made in the trendy reductive style. (92 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels - Germany, Rheinhessen
As usual for VDF very approachable but with good depth, slightly tropical compared to the higher cuvees. (91 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Probably the tightest coiled of all the wines other than the G-Max today but I enjoyed this more than others I think. Lean in a gorgeous, mineral way. (93 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Monopol - Germany, Rheinhessen
First vineyard for Keller, recently became a monopole. More expressive and overt sweetness compared to the Kirchspiel; not as singular as the other wines in the line-up. (92 pts.) - 2019 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Obvious petroleum on the nose, very powerful but with good precision still. Maybe a little too ripe compared to the other wines. (92 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Hipping Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
A warmer site and a relatively recent acquisition from Franz Karl Schmitt who after much thought decided that his best vineyards should be given to the best hands. Quite open-knit and less driven than the other wines but still remarkably balanced. Probably the most gulpable single vineyard today. (93 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Riesling G-Max - Germany, Rheinhessen
The holy grail that everyone was looking forward to tonight. Slightly reductive nose, palate had outstanding tension and concentration but nowhere near open for business. Could see the immense potential with the layered complexity but not the most coherent package tonight. (94 pts.) - 2018 Weingut Keller Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Großes Gewächs Alte Reben Auction - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
120 year old ungrafted vines from land rented from the church. Incredibly deep nose of orchard fruit, similar concentration and intensity to the G-Max but more expressive. Wonderful interplay between structure and delicate fruit. WOTN for me even ahead of the G-Max. (95 pts.) - 2023 Weingut Keller Spätburgunder Reserve - Germany, Rheinhessen
Explosive aromatics with a very elegant, light-footed palate. Such low-alcohol wines are so gulpable and fresh. Approachable now. (93 pts.) - 2023 Weingut Keller Frauenberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Very similar to the basic Spätburgunder Reserve but with an even more wild and expressive nose and a more complex palate. Deep, intense cherry fruit with very delicate and fine tannins. (94 pts.) - 2024 Weingut Keller Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Rheinhessen
Another win for the Hipping vineyard. Superb precision and acidity on the palate, love Kabinetts with such electricity. Only quibble is that it wasn’t as singular as the GGs, this was comparable to a good Willi Schaefer. (93 pts.) - 2024 Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
I normally love Julian Haart but this was clearly a step behind the Keller alongside which made this seem a little simple and dense. (90 pts.)
