Tarlant Cuvee Louis Extra Brut
Blend of the '96, '97, and '98 vintages, half chardonnay and half pinot noir, at least that’s what I learned when I went back and checked but from the taste of the wine I probably would have figured it for pure blanc de blancs and I definitely wouldn’t have figured the base vintages to go so far back. This is still extremely fresh and bright although it is very full with an expansive footprint. Starts out pure and fruity but reveals some metal shavings as it sits in the glass. Quietly compelling stuff with a lot of development as it sits.
Marie-Noelle Ledru 2002 Grand Cru Brut Nature
This is either all Ambonnay or mostly Ambonnay with a bit of Bouzy chardonnay blended in; the Crush email wasn’t totally clear on that point. Either way it’s a huge and immediate contrast from the Tarlant on the very first sip in two major respects. First is that it is extremely, chillingly, austerely dry to the point that it actually feels constricted. Second, this shows unmistakeable red-grape flavors with such a strong cherry taste that if you closed your eyes you might think you were drinking a rosé, except that I don’t think I’ve ever had a rosé as tight and constricted as this. A seriously masochistic wine with non-dosage tattoo’ed all over it. It’s certainly got personality but I kinda wish it would crack a smile.
Camille Saves Bouzy Grand Cru Brut Rosé
My style of rosé, no confectionary flavors here at all, dry enough to emphasize freshness and cut but certainly not aggressively dry like the Ledru, just very tasty pinot flavors complemented by some seriously intense minerality - “metal shavings” is an understatement, it practically tastes like there’s shrapnel in the glass. There is some seriously impressive character here for an NV.
Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montgueux
This one was pretty boring. Pale fruit without much character and even the fizz seemed listless. I dunno. There were leftovers so maybe I’ll revisit tonight.
Love Camille Saves lineup. Normally Lassaigne, too - wonder if Tuesday night had anything to do with it’s poor showing (cue the Ben Sherwin poem here) .
80% Ambonnay, 20% Chardonnay from Bouzy for clarification.
The crack a smile comment I think it a really interesting one and could apply to a lot of zero dosage Champagnes I have had. I had a bottle of Leclapart L’Apotre last night which is zero dosage and that would be a great way to describe its personality as well, really interesting and a great Champagne but I was wishing it would "crack a smile.
Marie-Noelle Ledru’s dosed* Champagnes are wonderful and very expressive, but they could also use a bit of a “smile”. * even Marie Ledru’s dosed Champagnes are quite low in dosage.
Coulda, woulda, shoulda… most of my Tarlant dollars go into La Vigne d’Antan so this was my only Louis.
I went back to the Lassaigne and the leftovers were much more enjoyable, though I can see why I was struggling with it the first day. There’s just not much to say about it. It’s kind of a piercing, acute Champagne with pure but very mild fruit - better as a food wine than a sipper.
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