The wine: 2012 Arnot-Roberts “Kirschenmann Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi The reason I’m excited: Here we have a marriage between a producer embraced by the geek faction (not to mention myself) and (lowly, pedestrian, supposedly non-geek worthy) Lodi Zinfandel. But not just any Lodi Zinfandel, the fruit comes from 98-year old vines that have probably never been awarded this sort of SV recognition in their long history. And I understand this venerable vineyard has attracted some other noteworthy producers as well. I’m assuming this won’t be released until at least next year. I’ll be first in line.
The wine: 2011 Copain “Laureles Grade” Chardonnay, Carmel Valley The reason I’m excited: Once again, a favorite producer is challenging conventional wisdom as to where fine wine can be sourced. OK, I have an ulterior motive – I bike Laureles Grade (basically a small, steep road that connects Carmel Valley Road and Hiway 68 (a state road between Carmel and Salinas). If the wine is anywhere close to as beautiful as the 1250’ site (knowing Wells I have no doubt of this), this will be spectacular! The Copain “Laureles” Chardonnay will be released this year. I’ve suffered riding over Laureles Grade and fully deserve a position at the head of the line!
We MC Laureles everytime we go to Monterey or Big Sur (coffee shop on the CV Rd side may have the rudest barristas in CA) so I’d be keen to try this too. Plan on asking the fellas @ A-R to barrel taste this Zin!
The A-R “Kirschenmann” Zinfandel looks to be quite unique - whole cluster and 12.7% alcohol. The word I’ve heard to describe wines from this vineyard is “feminine.”
Matt, two of my favorite Zins come across as very feminine to me - Nalle “Henderlong Ranch” (DCV) and Scherrer OMV/Shale Terrace (Alexander Valley).
I think that some are surprised that Zinfandel can express very “Pinot-like.” Even more interesting that a previously unheralded Lodi site has this characteristic.
Mike,
I think we are both happy to see North Coast producers begin to work with Monterey sites outside the known areas (ok, my feelings are mixed). I think the Hilltop section of Laureles grade is one of the MC areas with huge potential. If he’s pulling from the vineyard I think he’s pulling from, it’s a diatomaceous tufa ~1200 elevation 4 miles inland with direct ocean views. The vineyard is still pretty young but its tough to do better site-wise in CA for chardonnay. Should be very worthwhile.
Ian
I grew up drinking Zin and Pinot (burgundy) made in the feminine style. With new clones and picking for ripeness/flavor, the perception of these wines have changed dramatically. Old school people love the feminine wines. But newbies have no clue what to think of a feminine, balanced and pretty Zin. Some of the most humbling blind tastings I’ve done were with feminine style Zinfandels. A wine that is under appreciated in my opinion.
Ian, I can see how the “North Coast” producer discovery of superb Monterey County sites would be viewed as a mixed blessing. Wine is such a “perception” food product - I think that over the long-term this dynamic will benefit our local vineyards and winemakers alike.
In the meantime, I’m thrilled that you are taking a lead in uncovering these gems. I just placed an order - please make sure some “Pierce Ranch”, San Antonio Valley Petite is included!
This vineyard sounds really exciting. I love seeing more really rocky sites growing white wine in CA. I have talked to Wells about it but have yet to taste it. Can’t wait.
PS Ian isn’t the site more like 9-10 miles from the ocean?
Yeah. Could be that I’m getting my vineyard stats confused, maybe 9 or ten from the ocean, a little less from the bay. I think its the De Tierra vineyard that’s 4 or 5 from the bay, which is just around the corner and down the hill from this one. Either way, the important part is that its direct exposure rather than behind a ridge.
Speaking of Pierce Ranch, we sold Pax some super verde arinto this year that he’s already got on tap in a few places. Freaky. I have yet to try it.
Because we kept selling out too quickly, we’ve triple our petite production. Somehow, I don’t think that’s going to last either.
