Over twenty years ago, I was completely entranced by the cooking of Michael Chiarello when he owned Tra Vigne. In 1985 he was named Food & Wine Magazine’s Chef of the Year and I think that celebrity got to him because the quality at Tra Vigne went down hill, there were numerous rumors of Chiarello’s ego causing problems, and ultimately he sold the restaurant. For several years, Tra Vigne was sort of a laughing joke in the Napa Valley and the only business it saw was by tourists who didn’t know any better. He had a reputation in the valley as a bit of scamp.
And then Chiarello seemed to clean up his act. He put his name on a handful products through the brand, Napa Style. He started doing some television and getting a respectable mantle through television. But would he ever open another restaurant? Well, yes and hearkening back to those glory days of Tra Vigne, Bottega is packing them in and with good reason. I was going up to visit some old friends and suggested Bottega which is walking distance from their home. As it turned out, that evening was a special occasion with a related book signing by Lidia Bastianich and it was great fun watching Chiarello and Bastianich make the rounds around the room in between their own noshing.
I admit it; I get pretty psyched when I see savory versions of fried dough. I didn’t even recognize it as such when I read it on the menu: Organic Prosciutto house cured, pasta fritta, Lambrusco. “Fritta” means fried and it slipped by me until Ron described it. Well of course I had to have! Served on a large platter were four massive fritters; pasta dough studded with rosemary, deep fried, and then rolled in Parmesan cheese. These warm globules of goodness were served alongside paper-thin slices of prosciutto which had been drizzled with olive oil and topped with a few chunks of mango.
What threw me was the bowl of Lambrusco. When the platter arrived, I hadn’t remembered everything that was written and I thought the bowl was some form of dipping sauce. Ron was the one who told me it was to drink and I felt pretty foolish, dunking the tender, cheesy wonders in the bubbly cold wine. But when a bite of the fritter and prosciutto were taken and followed by the Lambrusco, I had the “ah-ha” moment. The lightly bubbly wine was clean and bright next to the rich sharpness of the cheese coating to the dense, succulent dough.
I was having quite a time determining what to have as a main course and ultimately, it was easier to ask the waiter to just bring me his favorite fish course. I was not disappointed by the surprise; Adriatic Seafood Brodetto with monkfish, mussels, rock cod and fresh Monterey calamari, forno-confit tomato broth, olive oil-crouton, paprika-saffron rouille. Like a thicker and richer version of Cioppino, the selection of fish was fresh and the mussels were especially large and tender. I liked the rouille-topped crouton as a tangy counterbalance to the redolent sauce.
Being pretty full from a huge appetizer (half of which was packed for leftovers) and the entrée (also half of which was packed for leftovers), the table shared a selection of biscotti cookies. I tasted the dark chocolate square and a sugar cookie that had a hint of saffron to it. But then there came a follow-up dessert, a sweet version of fried dough…
Here, we are eating a classic dessert presentation, inch-long warm fried dough rolled in granulated sugar and served with two sauces, a lemon curd and a raspberry jam. How much better can it get for a die-hard Fried Dough Ho to have two different servings in one spectacular meal? My only complaint about the doughnuts was the predominant use of a large-granule sugar which hardened to a point of flaking off in large sheets when the doughnut was bit; that meant there was a significant amount of grease still on the doughnuts when rolled in the sugar. One had to bite through large sections of sugar. This could have been rectified by rolling the freshly-dried balls in less sugar or possibly sugar that is more refined. Don’t get me wrong, they tasted great, but the sugar “sheets” did not adhere to the doughnuts when bit into but chunked off in the mouth.
The accompanying sauces were quite lovely and well-made as well. I am curious why two sauces would be offered but one in more quantity than the other? I suppose the obvious answer is that they are supposed to go with the curd more with the raspberry being an after garnish, but being a raspberry fan, I actually preferred that sauce over the curd, but the combination of the two was really exquisite. What a fabulous evening it was, having two Fried Doughs in one meal!
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